WHAT first began in 2006 as a valiant, but low-key attempt to introduce Vancouver diners to our own spot prawn fishery has turned into the city's most delicious celebration of spring.
Now, seven years later, spot prawn season is an event, with chefs and diners eagerly awaiting the first delivery of fresh prawns, still wriggling and slick with briny ocean water.
Up until six years ago, B.C. spot prawns were exported to Japan almost exclusively. It was chef Robert Clark (then of C Restaurant) and fisherman Steve Johansen of Organic Ocean who teamed up to create an event and campaign that would elevate these juicy beauties to a prized place on our local dinner tables for the short six-to eight-week stretch of the commercial spot prawn season.
This year, the season opened May 9, and the first catch was served that night at Yew Restaurant and Bar at Four Seasons Hotel Vancouver.
Johansen hauled it in, and Clark collaborated with Yew chef Ned Bell on the menu.
The main ingredient was slightly delayed by strong tides, but after their much-celebrated, and photographed,
arrival, the prawns went straight into the kitchen and then onto our plates. First up, Bell crafted a pretty plate of shelled crustaceans, one raw and one poached, reclining against thick slices of avocado, all set in his Green Goddess dressing.
Clark took over for the next course: bright-flavoured "Thai style" pickled spot prawns, studded with mint leaves and peanuts. He also made an almost impossibly bright green pea soup, swimming with prawn chunks and adorned with a crispy slice of prosciutto.
The main course was back to Bell, and it was his version of "surf and surf": cooked prawns nestled against a tender wedge of halibut, served with a crunchy kale Caesar salad.
On Saturday, the prawns got a less elegant, but no less delicious party, at the B.C. Spot Prawn Festival at Fisherman's Wharf by Granville Island.
Highlights included the Spot Prawn Boil, cooking demos by local chefs, free entertainment and kids' activities, and a long line to buy spot prawns fresh off the boats.
The best news is that the season has only just started.
You can head to the same spot at the wharf to buy your own spot prawns right from those who catch them for $12 per pound for the next for six to eight weeks; spot prawn boats arrive daily around 1 p.m. Or look for them at your favourite fishmonger. (Remember to eat them the same day, or to take off the heads and store them on ice. They'll turn mushy otherwise.)
Or look for them on the menu at your favourite North Shore restaurants. The Beach House in West Van is serving pan-seared spot prawns and scallops over vermicelli and jicama salad tossed with fresh pineapple, tomato, and grilled corn. The season is short, so dig in and enjoy! . . .
The five courses of that spectacular spot prawn dinner were thoughtfully matched with wine pairings by Yew sommelier Emily Walker. Among her picks: the lively Kurtis Semillon, a luscious Alsatian Muscat from Zind Humbrecht, a Cab Franc rosé from Tinhorn Creek, and with the halibut and prawns: Terralsole Rosso de Montalcino from Tuscany, and Toppiano Pinot Noir from California.
Now Walker is adding a new venture to her resumé, called Wineshare. She has teamed up with Vancouver Urban Winery to create Vancouver's first custom winemaking project that gives wine lovers an opportunity to be involved in the planning, harvest, production and branding of their own wine. This hands-on, personal winemaking experience for amateur vintners uses premium fruit from the region and is led by professional winemakers, right in the heart of Vancouver. For full details visit wineshare.ca [email protected]