WHEN the French (and others) talk about terroir they're generally referring to geography, soil type, grapes and the human element.
Wine, after all (above all) is very much about people. It's a fact of which I'm constantly reminded, especially when a legend in the business passes away. Last week, the wine world said goodbye to Peter Lehmann, known affectionately, but also with good reason, as "The Baron of the Barossa."
I met him only once, in Vancouver a few years ago, on what turned out to be a farewell tour. But his clever wit and down-to-earth manner left me with a lasting impression.
At the time, I said of Lehmann and his wife: "They're salt of the earth people, absolutely charming and engaging, who made a point of talking to every single person who attended the Vancouver dinner."
Lehmann's contribution to his community is legendary, particularly in the way in which he always stood up for the little guy. When growers' livelihoods were being threatened (in the 1970s) in the face of a grape glut, even though he himself could barely afford to stay in business, he always took their grapes on just a handshake. The business not only survived but thrived, so much so that it became a target for takeovers. Lehmann fought them off for many years, until successfully negotiating a friendly deal with the Swiss-owned Hess Family Estates that would again protect the growers who depended on him.
In his honour, I'm kicking off this week's "Belly's Best" picks with a couple of wines that capture Lehmann's spirit, integrity and penchant for over-delivering.
? Peter Lehmann Weighbridge Unoaked Chardonnay 2011 (south Australia)
The name is a nod to those early days when Lehmann would weigh in his growers' grapes. This is an easy drinking summer sipper for Chardonnay lovers that lets the fruit shine brightly through. It features stonefruit and a touch of citrus with just enough mouthfeel to keep it interesting. Good value at BCLS $12.99 (88 points).
? Peter Lehmann Portrait Series Shiraz 2010 (Barossa)
Lifted plummy and black fruit notes, with a broad, juicy but not extracted palate; nicely structured with firm but balanced tannins, streaks of juicy damson and a definite peppery finish. Crush black peppercorns over some New York strip or rib-eye, and raise a glass to The Man (BCLS $22.99, 91 points).
. . . Belly's Budget Best ? Quails Gate Gamay Rosé 2012
There's no time like the present to drink rosé, especially when it's made in an assertive but not overtly fruit-driven style. This wine is from Gamay grapes planted specifically with rosé in mind. Twenty-four-hour skin contact yields a medium salmon colour. It has a fruit-forward entry with rhubarb and apple notes before a dry finish. This is one of B.C.'s best rosé values, and is wonderfully food friendly (BCLS $15.99, 89 points).
? Nk'Mip Pinot Blanc 2011
It's hard to believe there was a time when there was more Pinot Blanc planted in B.C. than Chardonnay. What a shame so much was pulled out. This pick has lifted tropical notes on top, followed by zesty citrus and mineral notes on the palate before a clean finish. Think grilled chicken with Waldorf salad, or white spring salmon (BCLS $16.99, 89 points).
Tim Pawsey covers food and wine for numerous publications and online as the Hired Belly at hiredbelly.com. Contact: rebelmouse.com/hiredbelly, on Twitter @hiredbelly or email [email protected].
