ONE day into a whirlwind tour of Burgundy, and my very obliging guide Youri Lebault (bourgognegold-tour.com) is anxious to make sure I understand the importance of "The Rocks."
Twins, though by no means identical, these giants just two kilometres apart, named Solutré and Vergisson, not only preside over the Mâcon villages, they help define the region geographically and, more importantly, geologically.
Their Jurassic limestone layers and iron-tinged southern outcrops, often with marl and fossilized marine shells, act as a gateway to southern Burgundy. And their steep slopes are home to some of the best vineyards in the region, surrounded by murgers (low stone walls) and nurtured by generations of vignerons.
Fruit from the local villages of Vergisson, Solutré-Pouilly, Fuissé and Chaintré goes into Pouilly-Fuissé, Pouilly-Vinzelles, Pouilly-Loché and Saint-Veran AOC wines. Grapes have been grown here for two millennia, although it was the enterprising and politically powerful monks of the Abbey of Cluny who first recognized wine's true potential in a commercial sense.
Vineyards don't just dot the landscape here. They are the landscape, their long lines of twisted old vines marching up the slopes. This year, thanks to an unseasonably cool spring, bud break is late by about three weeks by most estimates. But the catch-up will be rapid as the weather warms.
Those soils are what helps set Pouilly Fuissé apart with a distinctive minerality and elegance that shows up in varying degrees, the more pronounced being from right around the rocks. The wines are often perfect matches for the local fresh seafood, as well as oysters, prawns, goat cheese and more.
One of the best oyster matches would be Chateau de Beauregard Pouilly-Fuissé Vers Cras 2010 (biodynamically farmed), with chalky notes and pronounced minerality (BCLS $32.99, 91 pts).
However, I'd also be inclined to hold out for the very focused, floral, taut, persistent mineral tones of complex and balanced Chateau de Beauregard Pouilly-Fuissé Sur le Roche 2011. Aptly named, the "climat" our designated vineyard is right on the lower slopes of Vergisson (coming soon, BCLS $45.99, 93 pts.).
Also worth a nod: the more floral, pear-and-citrus toned Macon Solutré Pouilly 2011 (BLCS $24.99, 89 pts.).
Chateau Beauregard, so named because it has a stunning view of both Solutré and Vergisson across the valley, is in the hands of the sixth generation of the Burrier family. And they've been making wine around these parts for some 500 years.
It's that reality of history that absolutely personifies Burgundy, from south to north as I'm about to discover in spades.
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There's no time like the present to grab a ticket for this year's Dish 'n Dazzle, a no-holds-barred tasting extravaganza on May 30, at the Pan Pacific Hotel.
Presented by B.C. Hospitality Foundation and Wines of Chile and sponsored by the Pan Pacific and Legacy Liquor Store, the event will feature a dozen of Vancouver's finest chefs creating tastes to match with wines from leaders such as Concha y Toro, Errazuriz, Koyle, Vinedos Emiliana, and many more.
To cap it off: a high-stakes cocktail competition starring the cream of Vancouver's uber-inventive cocktail scene, plus a silent auction and raffle.
Proceeds will go to the B.C. Hospitality Foundation (full disclosure: I'm on the board), which helps people in the industry in time of need, such as when facing critical health issues, as well as helping hospitality students through a growing scholarship program. If you're not familiar with the foundation, take time to check out bchospitalityfoundation.com. I think you'll be quite moved.
Tickets: $75 +tax are on sale now at eply.com.
See you there!
Tim Pawsey covers food and wine for numerous publications and online as the Hired Belly at hiredbelly.com. Contact: rebelmouse.com/hiredbelly, on Twitter @hiredbelly or email [email protected].
