WHEN I first met Eric Lorenz a couple of years ago, tequila was something you made margaritas with and, well, who had even heard of mezcal?
Fast forward two years and Lorenz is busy putting the final touches on the second annual International Tequila Expo (May 24, Hyatt Regency, 6-9 p.m.), which he co-founded with long-time promoter of all things tastefully Mexican, Manuel Otero. And these days, tequila is very much on the local radar. This year, the expo will mark the conclusion of Agave Week (May 19-24), with a greatly expanded program of tastings and seminars at Legacy Liquor Store.
During that first tequila tasting, thanks to Lorenz, I made my acquaintance with mezcal. I'm not sure what's worse: to be called a heretic or a sassenach. But I'll likely be called both for comparing some older mezcals to single malt.
When it comes down to truly serious sipping spirits, in my mind you can count them on one hand, and tequila and mezcal are right in there.
Lorenz in particular has worked hard to eradicate tequila's reputation as a "shooter" drink. And he's also emerged as a formidable champion of mezcal.
We met up recently to preview the festival and dutifully taste a few mezcals. I asked him to explain the differences between tequila and mezcal.
"There are three main distinctions that relate to cooking methods, regions of origin, and species of agave," says Lorenz.
While both are made from the agave plant (which contrary to popular belief is not a cactus), tequila is made from one species: the blue agave. mezcal is made from some 40 different species although they are rarely blended. If two or three are combined, the mezcalero usually has a good reason for it, says Lorenz, such as imparting a specific taste or character.
While blue agave for tequila is usually harvested at around eight years (but increasingly as young as six) species used for mezcal often grow wild and may take as long as 24 years, though 12 to 14 is the norm.
Often they're harvested by indigenous people, who take care in selecting mature plants, leaving others until it's time.
For tequila, the centre of the plant is steamed, while mezcal agave is pit-oven roasted over several days, which imparts a distinct, smoky character.
All spirits need to be diluted. Tequila is diluted with water while the mezcalero uses lower-proof alcohol in the late stages of distilling, "to whatever taste suits."
Tequila comes mainly from Jalisco with some from four other states, while mezcal is made mainly in Oaxaca, plus seven other southern states on the south-facing pacific coastline. Both have designated denominations of origin, says Lorenz. "Think Cognac to Armagnac," he says.
More on Mezcal next week. For Tequila Expo details and tickets visit vancouvertequilaexpo.com
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? Blue Mountain N/V Brut B.C.'s long-running standard bearer for bubbles never disappoints. I tasted this again last week and was once again impressed by its persistent bubbles, balanced toast and citrus notes with a definite hint of Pinot. Food match? Everything from grilled chicken salad to Mimolette cheese and oysters ($24-$29).
Tim Pawsey covers food and wine for numerous publications and online as the Hired Belly at hiredbelly.com. Contact: rebelmouse.com/hiredbelly, on Twitter @hiredbelly or email [email protected].
