I'VE followed the fortunes of B.C.'s smaller wineries with interest for some time now, so when an invite to drop by and check out some new releases from a handful described as "wine farmers" popped into my inbox I was all over it.
There's no shortage of winery associations these days, but this was a bona fide gathering of "hands-on," more genuine vintner-grower, get-your-hands-in-the-soil types brought together by Vancouver wine-about-town guy Kurtis Kolt.
These wineries are more focused than some others on truly representing the vineyard in the bottle. And they had no shortage of decent drops on offer as part of this spring release tasting. Most of these are small lot wines that won't last long, so your best bet is to track them down right from the source or at private stores specializing in B.C. wines.
? Fairview Cellars "C2" Cab. Sauv. Cab Franc 2010
From the man who does just about everything himself (except, perhaps, pouring the concrete for his new cellar) comes this well-balanced blend that offers no shortage of plushness in the mouth but with good structure from the Cab. Coming in June, but with only 220 cases made, given the value it represents, you'd best get your name on the list early ($24.90, 89 pts.).
? Orofino Scout Vineyard Syrah 2011
This Similkameen winery's stature continues to grow, and no wonder. I could point you to any number of wines, from a lineup of single-vineyard small-lot Rieslings to a respectably earthy Pinot Noir. But it was this meaty, spicy, peppery and really minerally Syrah that grabbed my attention ($29. 91 pts.). You'll want some, as you might also the 2010 Passion Pit Cabernet.
? Road 13 Mitchell's Vineyard (Summerland) Gewurztraminer 2012
Winemaker JM Bouchard has his hands full with just about as many wines as any winery I know. And the list isn't getting any smaller, as Road 13 embarks on an expanded small lots program. As Bouchard says, most folks will go ga-ga over this gew, which is why I like it too. It packs a serious lychee and rose petal punch on the nose, with extraordinary ripeness and texture on the perfumed palate, with a hint of ginger ($24 90 pts.).
? Little Farm Blind Creek Similkameen Rosé 2012
I've been tasting more than my share of rosés over the last few weeks, and this one from Alishan Driediger and Rhys Pender is a standout. We love its serious dry style, bursting with cranberry and herbal notes, earthy undertones and a crisp, zesty, chalky end. Grab it at $24 (90 pts.) if you can.
And while you're at it, or even before, don't miss Little Farm Chardonnay 2012, with focused apple and stonefruit plus underlying tropical notes and a decidedly mineral streak that tells you it's very much from the Similkameen Valley (92 pts. $29.90), but only 25 cases.
? Van Western Vineyards Voluptuous 2008
From one of Naramata's most consistent estate producers comes this complex and well-balanced Merlot (67 per cent) Cab Franc (33 per cent) blend that's loaded with black fruit and spices wrapped in a plush opulence, but with some definite backbone with cassis and toasty notes before a lengthy close ($29.90, 90 pts.).
