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Rosé 'revival' visible at tasting

IS rosé still on a roll? It looks that way. Last week I had a chance to test drive a quartet of Provence rosés (all part of a B.C. Liquor Stores' June promotion) to see how they stacked up.

IS rosé still on a roll? It looks that way.

Last week I had a chance to test drive a quartet of Provence rosés (all part of a B.C. Liquor Stores' June promotion) to see how they stacked up. Following last year's tasting, it was interesting to note the ongoing emphasis on creative packaging, which no doubt is doing its part in fueling the "rosé revival."

While many B.C. rosés are becoming increasingly fruit driven (some so much so that they pass more for light reds), stylistically, Provence provides a welcome counterpoint.

Most are more restrained in style though rarely lacking in complexity and character. Not surprisingly, they also make for worthy food partners. The 2012 vintage resulted in lower sugars and sometimes lighter, more subtle, wines. Chill them down and they're full-on refreshing and very food friendly.

? L'Amphore de Provence 2012 (Cotes de Provence)

My informal tasting group tasted these wines blind, in part because some of the bottles are pretty fancy looking and I didn't want people to be influenced before they tried the wine.

Marketers are keenly aware that more than a few people are inclined to buy a wine based purely on its label or bottle style. Chances are this is one, with its shape and name inspired by the traditional amphora vessel with little handles at the neck. Not a lot of complexity but certainly easy drinking. Strawberry and rhubarb notes with spicy notes, easy acidity and good length. Patio and food friendly (BCLS $19.99; 89 points).

? Chateau Sainte Roseline, Cuvée Lampe de Méduse, Cru Classé 2012

The Chateau is named after Sainte Rosaline (the 14th century abbess, whose tomb is enshrined there). It enjoys a history of grape growing that dates from that era and is one of only 14 estates that were designated Provence Crus Classés in 1955. The blend of 35 per cent Cinsault, 30 per cent Grenache, 15 per cent Mourvèdre, 10 per cent Syrah and Tibouren adds up to a pale orange-salmon hue in the glass, with floral and citrus notes on top. Definitely on the dry side with some mineral, grapefruit and lemon zest and a hint of saltiness in a decidedly elegant, sleek bottle (88 points, $28.49).

? Moulin de Rogne 2012 (Coteaux d' Aix en Provence)

This very successful grower-run group describe themselves as an "upmarket co-operative." As it turns out, this Languedoc blend of Grenache Noir, Syrah, Cinsault and Cabernet Sauvignon appeals for its juicy drinkability and good value. Floral and red berry notes, quite juicy and generous on the palate with mineral, cherry pit, citrus and floral notes ($15.99; 88 points).

? Domaine de Dragon Cuvée Prestige 2012 (Cotes de Provence)

Mainly Grenache (68 per cent) with Cabernet (15 per cent), Cinsault (eight per cent) and others. Stonefruit and floral aromas with citrus and lavender notes followed by mild red berries on the quite fruity but dry palate ($23.99, 88 points).

. . .

There's still a way to go before the 2014 vintage is even harvested, let alone in the bottle, but already off the press is the 2014 Winery Dogs of B.C. Calendar. Chances are, if you're touring wineries this summer (especially in the Okanagan), you might just run into a couple of these friendly canines.

Wine columnist Troy Townsin (the man who started it all in 2006), says: "With so many new wineries popping up, the demand to be in the calendar is always greater than the space we have, so there are also lots of new pin-up pooches every year."

His rewards add up to lots of fun and the satisfaction of raising funds for B.C. SPCA, with no shortage of fans and feedback, plus the honour of being a regular judge at the annual doggie fashion show at SYL Ranch: "It's hilarious," he says. Look for it at participating wineries and soon at VQA stores.

Tim Pawsey covers food and wine for numerous publications and online as the Hired Belly at hiredbelly.com. Contact: rebelmouse.com/hiredbelly, on Twitter @hiredbelly or email [email protected].