DESPITE the brief resurgence of Chardonnay as 2012's Vancouver International Wine Festival global focus, when it comes to B.C. Pinot Gris still seems very much in the driver's seat.
In fact, according to the just released 2012 harvest tonnage report, there was almost as much Gris harvested as Chardonnay, while Pinot Blanc has been eclipsed by both Gewurz and Riesling.
I'll suggest that part of the reason Pinot Gris is appreciated so much here is because people find its unoaked (or maybe very discretely oaked) style to be entirely food friendly. That's especially the case with local seafood, such as spot prawns or halibut.
There used to be a time when a clear distinction was made between (leaner, crisper) Pinot Grigio and (usually more full-fruited, and off-dry, sometimes with higher residual sugar) Pinot Gris. But the lines have become more blurred at the marketer's whim. Often you'll find Pinot Grigio out there that very definitely fits the profile of Pinot Gris. But never mind.
In short, there's plenty of good Pinot Gris/Grigio on the shelves for summer sipping and pairing, including not a few from B.C.
? Gray Monk Pinot Gris 2012
Certainly one of the prettier wines around from a winery that pioneered the variety in the Okanagan. It has a touch of salmon colour from skin contact, before lifted orchard fruits and a juicy, off-dry style that makes it very easy to drink (90 pts.); widely available; Okanagan Wine Festival 2013 Best of Varietal Wines Award Winner (BCLS $17.99).
? Tinhorn Creek Pinot Gris 2012
This wine shone at a recent informal "brown bag" tasting with my informal consumer tasting group that included several Gris. Full-fruited with apple and citrus notes and good acid balance, with just a little extra heft from partial malolactic fermentation ($18.99, 90 pts).
? Spierhead Pinot Gris 2012
A bright streak of acidity lends plenty of backbone, with apple and citrus notes, drier style, well structured before a lengthy finish; grapes from Summerland ($18.90, 90 pts.). ? Sperling Vineyards Pinot Gris 2012
Definite mineral notes with some spicy undertones in a quite broadly textured palate with melon and a touch of citrus ($19-ish, private stores, 91 pts.).
? Stoneboat Pinot Gris 2012
One of the best recently tasted, this remarkably clear wine ("All the pinkiness drops out with the lees," says winemaker Alison Moyes) sports a broad palate, juicy peach and citrus with balanced acidity and a mineral, spicy streak. Partially neutral-barrel fermented ($18.90, 91 pts).
? Intrigue Pinot Gris 2012
Here's another winner from Roger Wong, who takes time out from duties at Gray Monk to make his own, Intrigue wines. An approachable style, with citrus and tropical hints, good mouth feel and a lingering close ($16.90, 89 pts.).
? Tic Tok Pinot Grigio 2012
A ringer in our blind tasting, this Aussie imposter sports a more "tangy" style, hence the Grigio moniker, says maker James Oatley. On the palate, quite full bodied with easy sipping juiciness, tropical pear and citrus notes. I'm happy with it whatever it's called ($16.99, 89 pts.).
. . .
Good wine just doesn't happen by accident. It takes plenty of know-how and experience, often from across the world, to grow the right varieties in the best conditions and ultimately make winning wines. All of which makes an upcoming visit by Alberto Antonini even more compelling.
It's been three years since the savvy crowd behind Okanagan Crush Pad reached out to Antonini (a highly respected, Tuscan-based viticultural consultant) to get involved with their novel project that's begun to have a huge impact on the B.C. wine industry. Hard to pin down, perhaps, but there's no question that he's already made a significant contribution to OK Crush Pad's remarkable early success.
House Wine presents Alberto Antonini in what promises to be a fascinating conversation and tasting of the wines he's involved in from around the globe, from Australia, Italy, Argentina and B.C., at Vancouver Urban Winery; June 3; 7-9 p.m. Tix $79 plus GST, via Eventbrite.
. . .
Belly's Budget Best ? Concha y Toro Casillero del Diablo Pinot Grigio 2012
An affordable sipper, definitely more in the Italian style, with lifted tropical and stone fruit notes, fresh and fruity, up-front citrus with a clean finish; not complex but big brand value at $13.95 BCLS (88 pts.).
Vancouver's Best Noodle House 2012
Tim Pawsey covers food and wine for numerous publications and online as the Hired Belly at hiredbelly.com. Contact: rebelmouse.com/hiredbelly, on Twitter @hiredbelly or email [email protected].
