I'M always intrigued by the notion of the tasting menu, the idea of going to a restaurant and letting them do all the work for you.
It's not that I can't abide choosing, but I love putting myself in someone else's hands. In fact, some of the best meals I can recall over the last 20 kilos have occurred when the only question asked when we sat down was "any allergies?" or "red or white?"
This week marked Norouz (Iranian New Year) and seemed the perfect time to visit Diva at the Met to check out chef Hamid Salimian's remarkable Perisan-inspired plates paired with wines chosen by sommelier manager Corey Bauldry. Aside from being a great culinary adventure, several of the wines were slam-dunk matches (often in quite complex and challenging circumstances) that underscored their flexibility and food-friendliness.
Here are three (among many) that worked particularly well, and that also deliver excellent value should you want to try them at home.
All too often, sparkling wine is still relegated to being popped purely for celebratory occasions, which is fine, except that when made well it can be your best friend and a highly flexible flood partner. Blue Mountain Brut endures as one of the Okanagan's top bubblies for a reason.
It offers a great balance of fruit and acidity, with some citrus notes and a crisp, clean close. At Diva they serve it with the "snacks" that precede the tasting menu. Its crispness works well with the chicken skin kebab in particular, and cuts the richness of the lamb cerveau and even survives the complex layers of romaine granita (PWS around $28$30).
? Chateau Ste. Michelle Columbia Valley Riesling 2011
This Washington State Riesling sports a fruit-forward style with lemon-lime notes, a touch of mineral, and a nice streak of acidity that was the perfect foil for the seductive richness of the chef's clever pork jowl creation, with saffron broth and onion purée (BCLS $16.99).
? De Bortoli Noble One Botrytis Semillon 2009
This under-appreciated dessert wine from one of Australia's legendary producers is a fine pinch-hitter for more expensive icewine. Its honeyed, citrus and stonefruit flavours were a perfect match for the vibrant and ingeniously mimicked meyer lemon mousse (BCLS $34.99).
Make a point of trying these superb Persian-inspired tasting menus, which draw from all over the region, and their wines (until March 29) before they vanish for another year. They add up to a real adventure and are utterly unique compared to any other menu on offer.
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Another wine dinner of note: Joy Road Catering pairs its Cuisine du Terroir with Road 13 Vineyards at Vancouver Urban Winery, April 3, when the winery presents a few of its harder to find drops, starting with the perennially award-winning Chenin Blanc bubble. Tickets are going fast but you can still score some at: joyroad13.eventbrite.ca.
Belly's Budget Best
? Compagnie Rhodanienne Les Belles Combes 2010
Here's one of the best budget Cote-du-Rhone values around. Medium-bodied with lively black fruit and just a hint of earthy grip make it an excellent food wine that punches well above its weight (88 pts. BCLS specialty $13.50).
