If there’s one thing of which you could never accuse Bertus Albertyn it would be taking himself too seriously.
Albertyn is winemaker, viticulturist and co-owner of Maverick Estate Winery, a gem of a new winery in the South Okanagan that’s impressed me from the word “go” and is already turning heads. As I tasted through his wines last week, it occurred to me that, while I’ve met more than my share of winemakers, few are as driven by such joyful passion in their work.
At just 37, Albertyn already has plenty of experience under his belt, having worked in several of the world’s major regions. “I know just enough to get myself into a lot of trouble,” he says with a laugh.
Between several vintages, first as winemaker at Wellington Cellars and then as head viticulturist and winemaker at Avondale, a leading-edge, ecologically aware Cape producer, he worked the “off seasons” in Sonoma, Italy, Cotes du Ventoux and Northern Rhone.
Schalk de Witt, Albertyn’s father-in-law, had recognized the Okanagan’s potential, as well as many similarities to South Africa, when he first came to Canada almost a couple of decades ago. He and his wife Lynn purchased 48 acres in Osoyoos in 2005. After Albertyn met his wife in 2007, they also decided to investigate possibilities in Canada.
“We drove through the valley and said this looks very similar to home. We tasted some of the wines and they were quite drinkable,” jokes Albertyn. (“No, there were some very good wines,” he’s quick to add.)
The couple purchased an old, neglected organic farm and spent long hours clearing the property of remains of greenhouses and old sheds, one of which was converted into a winery, just to get going.
“We planted everything from scratch,” says Albertyn. “Luckily, because of my background we actually dug the soil and planted in about one-acre lots, with everything specifically geared to what we felt would grow here. We picked the varieties based on the soils.”
As a seasoned winemaker, Albertyn had no problem finding people interested in hiring him (such as Donald Triggs at Culmina and Burrowing Owl’s Jim Wyse) while they were getting going. Maverick Estate Winery came to fruition with about 400 cases made in 2011, growing to some 4,000 cases this year.
Ever modest, Albertyn says the reason behind his passion for wine is simple: “I’m actually a wine drinker. I just love wine. Wine-making is an easy way to get to drinking wine,” he jokes.
But he notes making wine is a way of life for him.
Maverick’s wines continue to impress me. They’re some of the cleanest and well-made, value-driven drops coming out of the south valley. If you’re in the area, make sure you drop by the family’s exquisite, just-completed tasting room.
Here’s a couple to track down locally:
Maverick Estate Origin 2014
Equal parts Sauvignon Blanc and Gewurztraminer, with 10 per cent Viognier and a splash of Pinot Gris, yields citrus and floral aromas before a juicy, quite textured tropical and lime palate with mineral hints ($17, 90 points).
Maverick Estate Sauvignon Blanc 2014
More gooseberry and citrus than grassy on top; vibrant gooseberry and citrus wrapped in a broad mouthfeel, with a lengthy, gently mineral end ($19, 92 points).
Also tasted and of note: 2014 Pinot Gris (92 points); 2013 Pinot Noir (91 points); Sophia Port-style (91 points). Oh, and keep an eye out for Ella, a wicked, traditional-method Pinot Noir-Chardonnay 2013 Brut Rosé (92 points), coming in the fall.
Tim Pawsey writes about wine for numerous publications and online as the Hired Belly at hiredbelly.com. Contact: [email protected].
