I never thought I'd use Harry McWatters' name in the same sentence as Jim Croce's, but there I was, walking home from the official launch of the B.C. pioneer's new winery, Time Estate Winery, quietly humming "Time in a Bottle" to myself.
It's exactly 20 years to the day since McWatters undertook at the time the largest vineyard planting in Canada, on Black Sage Road. Not only that, he opted to plant Bordeaux varieties, which most gave little hope of being able to ripen on a regular basis. As he says, more than a few people thought he was nuts, including Gray Monk owner George Heiss who said (in timeless fashion): "When you get stuck with those grapes give me a call."
Not only are the two still friends to this day but guess who now buys a portion of those same grapes for Gray Monk's top-tier red blends?
After he sold Sumac Ridge to Vincor in 2000 (later bought by Constellation Brands), the much-celebrated vineyard was jointly owned by Constellation and McWatters. More recently it was physically divided when the partnership was dissolved. Constellation has the rights to the Black Sage name, so McWatters elected to call his portion "Sundial" in anticipation of Time Estate Winery. This week, McWatters was in a jovial mood as he explained his plans for the estate and new building (to be finished in late 2014):
"Hopefully, this is the last time I'll be doing this," he said. But as he notes, wine is all about time and place.
And few people in the history of B.C.'s modern industry have a grasp as good as his when it comes to understanding just what might be the right time and place. Time Estate Winery is designed to be as unobtrusive in its natural setting as possible. In addition to its functional features it will include four luxury suites as well as a reception area and commercial kitchen for events catering. Needless to say, having made the first vintage elsewhere in 2011, McWatters already has Time in the bottle (and for sale). He poured the three wines that make up his production: a red Meritage, a white Meritage and a barrel aged Chardonnay. The facility will also produce the existing line of McWatters' collection wines. It wouldn't surprise me to see an "icon" wine at some point, however.
Meritage is close to McWatters' heart, as his was the first Canadian winery to adopt the California-developed name created in response to Bordeaux's legendary blends.
White Meritage 2012
Superb with Brix Restaurant's spot prawn ceviche, with grapefruit, ginger and grapefruit. It's good to see this former Sumac flagship return (79 per cent Sauvignon Blanc, 21 per cent Semillon: melon, citrus and tropical notes) $25 (91 points).
Chardonnay 2011
Vanilla and oak on top, creamy, with a soft, buttery palate with tropical, melon and citrus hints, toasty notes and moderate acidity ($27.99, 89 points).
Red Meritage 2011
Black and red fruit on top with some perfumed notes before a plush blackberry and cassis-toned palate (60 per cent Merlot, 25 per cent Cab Sauv, 15 per cent Cab Franc). Allow to open in the glass or hold ($29.99, 90 points).
Belly's Budget Best The View Red Shoe White 2012
Fun, easy sipping, off-dry, lower alcohol blend of Optima (66 per cent), Riesling (20 per cent) and Gewurz (14 per cent). Delivers citrus and floral aromas followed by a lychee and stonefruit palate. Lightly-spiced Asian plates; grilled chicken and Waldorf salad ($15.50, 88 points).
Wines available at VQA stores. For more info visit timewinery.com.
Tim Pawsey covers wine for numerous publications and online as the Hired Belly at hiredbelly.com. Contact: info@ hiredbelly.com.
