ONE of the earliest incarnations of the restaurant emerged when weary travellers, traversing greater distances as transportation infrastructure improved, demanded en route sustenance.
Inns and taverns provided such fare, satisfying both the need for rest and the need for a restorative meal. In French, that which restores is called a restaurant.
The history of the connection between hotels and restaurants is a storied one. In fact, some of the world's most accomplished chefs come from restaurants situated in hotels.
However, the advent of the chain hotel has contributed to a popular new opinion of hotel restaurants. Home to the ubiquitous continental breakfast and "world famous" Caesar salad, these functional, oftentimes cookie-cutter, establishments rarely rise to the top of anyone's list of must-try dining venues. It is, therefore, with considerable interest that I have watched Vancouver begin to reclaim the reputation of the hotel restaurant, liberating it from the Formica tabletop and pastel dinner mint image that has plagued it for so long. Venues like Hawksworth, Market, and Tableau, all situated in hotels, have been praised for their exceptional cuisine and service, earning loyal guests along the way.
In 2010, construction was completed on the Pinnacle at the Pier Hotel on Lower Lonsdale's shoreline. The 105-room hotel is an elegant property with a unique view of downtown Vancouver.
Since its opening, the Pinnacle at the Pier has earned a reputation for providing some of the North Shore's best accommodations. It is currently ranked number 1 of 11 North Vancouver hotels listed on Trip Advisor. The hotel also boasts its own restaurant, The Lobby, which has quietly found favour with local and visiting patrons alike. It is an Open Table Diners' Choice winner and was a 2012 North Shore News Readers Choice finalist.
The Lobby's accolades are all the more remarkable when you consider the success of Pier 7, its idyllically situated neighbour and surely its top competitor, even if both restaurants are owned by the same group. Pier 7 boasts stunning wrap-around patios and the cuisine of Dino Renaerts, arguably one of Vancouver's most celebrated culinary talents. Combine Pier 7's assets with lingering prejudices against hotel restaurants and you can see that The Lobby has overcome a few obstacles to garner its following.
I decided to visit The Lobby for Sunday brunch to see if the Pinnacle at the Pier is doing its part to redeem the reputation of hotel restaurants. I am pleased to report it is.
The Lobby is a nicely appointed room with dark wooden floors and giant windows that flood the space with natural light. Its brunch menu is a treat, offering a sizeable selection of sweet and savoury dishes including omelettes and eggs Benedict, halibut and chips, and seared Alaskan black cod.
My visit to The Lobby marked a special occasion: my seventh wedding anniversary. My wife DJ and I toasted the occasion with mimosas, easily one of the most enjoyable ways to consume a daily serving of fruit.
DJ chose the Brunch Omelette: three eggs with cheddar, fire-roasted red peppers and spinach, served with skin-on breakfast potatoes and a basket of buttered toast. The omelette was fluffy and plump, bursting at the seams with its fresh ingredients.
I ordered the restaurant's signature brunch dish: Crab Cake Benny. It is clear to me why executive chef Joel Green and his team are keen to stand behind this dish.
It is, without qualification, among the top three preparations of eggs Benedict I have had the pleasure of eating.
The two Dungeness crab cakes were dense and meaty and provided an exceptional base for perfectly poached eggs and homemade Hollandaise.
This dish alone makes a return visit worthwhile.
Service was attentive and welcoming. Anyone who regularly goes out for brunch knows that this is not always the case as the aftermath of Saturday night's indulgences are so often apparent on the brave but wincing faces of brunch staff. Brunch can be a tough meal service to execute well. The Lobby does a commendable job. Our meal came to $56 before gratuity.
The Lobby is located on the main floor of the Pinnacle at the Pier Hotel, 138 Victory Ship Way, North Vancouver. Phone: 604-973-8000 for reservations.
Chris Dagenais served as restaurant manager for several restaurants downtown and on the North Shore. A self-described wine fanatic, he earned his sommelier diploma in 2001. Contact: [email protected].
