SHORT of heading south, way south in this vast country, the best way to experience Patagonia is to book in at Experiencia Del Fin Del Mundo in the capital's bustling Palermo district.
The edgy, warm, dark wood-toned restaurant (owned by the winery of the same name) is leading the charge in Buenos Aires, showcasing Patagonia's role as an up and coming region. (Even though some plantings have been around for nigh on 100 years or more, Argentina's southernmost wine country is all too often eclipsed by more familiar Mendoza.)
What's compelling about Experiencia - aside from its truly excellent food - is the restaurant's selfless promotion of many other Patagonian wines well beyond its own.
The region is renowned for its stony soils and big diurnals (the temperature difference between day and night), which often as not results in wines with great acidity and minerality.
If Mendoza is perceived as being all about Malbec (it is, although there's plenty more to discover too) then Patagonia can lay claim to a veritable wealth of other varieties that flourish, including Pinot Noir, Merlot and Riesling, not to mention Torrontes and, yes, more Malbec.
Our tasting yielded a wide variety of good finds, starting with citrus and mineral-toned Humberto Canale Riesling 2011 (90 pts; we're hopeful some might eventually find its way here) to Familia Shroeder's highly appealing, off-dry Deseado Torrontes sparkler ($26.99), which won third spot in this year's Vancouver Wine Festival Vintners' Brunch.
Civil engineer Humberto Canale is credited with breathing life into the barren region when he initiated an early 1900s irrigation project from the Rio Negro that effectively turned the desert into a green and flourishing area suitable for all kinds of agriculture, including viticulture.
Here's a selection (too small) of Patagonia drops available locally. Given the quality of what we tasted, we can only hope for more to show up soon.
Much more on Argentina in coming weeks .
- Humberto Canale Estate Merlot 2009.
From 45-year-old vines, heady red and black berry aromas, luscious cassis and red currant with vibrant fruit entry and broad mouthfeel with appealing savoury mid-palate. (PWS, $18-$22, 91 pts)
Bodega Fin Del Mundo Special Blend Riserva 2009
Red and black fruits with chocolate and damson on the palate wrapped in silky, supple tannins, spicy notes and a lengthy close. (Specialty, PWS $33.50)
Familia Schroeder Saurus Select Pinot Noir 2009
Raspberry and cherry toned with good varietal expression, well balanced with a savoury edge. Think duck breast and wild mushrooms. (EW $24.99)
. . .
A couple of smart new beers crossed the Hired Belly's threshold last week in the form of Steamworks Pilsner and Pale Ale. We're partial to both, in that the pilsner delivers a whole lot more hoppy heft and herbal bite than you might expect, while the pale ale is another strong contender, with no shortage of richness without being in any way cloying, balanced by a gentle hint of citrus. In short, they both add up to good drinking.
We have a hunch, however, that the fanciful bottle design (conceived by wine label guru Bernie Hadley Beauregard) will also gain a firm following, with a whimsical salute to the steam-driven brewery and its location, well almost.
There is a little licence at play here. Front and centre is the "flatiron" Hotel Europe, topped with two giant beer bottles, to give the appearance of an ocean liner. Gassy Jack, complete with barrel, is on the bow.
There's more, including a steam kettle hot air balloon on the neck, a small squadron of "heli-kegs" flying around, and even a "redemption" angel heading heavenward with a 10c. back bottle.
It really is a thing of beauty.
And we've never said that about a beer bottle before, not even a full one.
