Attempting to repair damaged hair or nails with a topical treatment can be like trying to fix a rotten piece of wood with a new coat of paint.
Many popular treatments can be counterproductive according to Sara Kinnon, a naturopathic physician at Bellevue Natural Health Clinic.
"You have to balance what's going on on the outside and what's going on on the inside," she explains. "Attention to the inside is critical. We must provide the body with adequate nutrients to make healthy hair and nails. Topical treatments are helpful but not always permanent solutions. The fewer the chemicals we use, the better."
There is a strong correlation between brittle hair and nails and adrenal gland dysfunction, thyroid problems, hormone imbalances, as well as vitamin and mineral deficiencies, according to Kinnon.
Chronic stress can also sometimes be indicated by the state of fingernails.
"Brittle nails or nails that bend or peel, sometimes nails that have ridges in them, longitudinal ridges can be indicative (of chronic stress)," she says.
Fingernails should be uniform in colour, according to Kinnon.
A change in colour or the appearance of spots, dark streaks or changes in shape might signal a vitamin deficiency, but could also be a symptom of diabetes, liver or kidney disease, says Kinnon.
When treating brittle nails, Kinnon recommends olive oil, coconut oil, and shea butter, and eschewing nail polish.
"Nails treated with nail polish and remover are especially robbed of their moisture and strength."
Hair that is splitting near the root can also be a sign of thyroid dysfunction, says Kinnon.
"Hair is a little bit more difficult because it's so chemically treated these days, typically," she says.
Hair should not be falling out in abnormal amounts, cautions Kinnon.
"It's hard to gauge, but you don't want to be losing more than a handful of hair a day," she says.
Unhealthy hair can also be an early indicator of scalp problems, according to Kinnon.
As a general rule, she advises shampooing hair every two or three days in order to allow the hair to maintain its moisture and strength.
She also recommends steering clear of shampoos that contain alcohol, sodium lauryl sulfate, and paraben, which can a damage hair.
"Shampoos, conditioners, and colour or styling products are laden with ingredients that can actually dry out hair and lead to more brittle hair."
Some people have their hair analyzed to measure its health, but Kinnon says that practice remains unproven.
"A lot of people get their hair analyzed for minerals and so forth, and the science is just not there to back it," she says.
The importance of having healthy hair and nails goes deeper than the hair and nails themselves, says Kinnon, adding unhealthy hair and nails can be a warning sign of a more serious health problem.
In some cases, diet should become a primary focus, says Kinnon.
"If we can fix what's going in, that's half the problem right there, solved," she says.
The key is to ensure a patient is absorbing all the nutrients from their food, which should include a balanced diet containing healthy fats and minerals, as well as enough protein.
"Protein is the building block for hair and nails," she says.
