Imagine this scene: 96 huskies barking, yelping and howling at once - a symphony unlike anything you've ever heard before. Unless of course you have taken part in dog sledding, a very ancient mode of travel.
My partner Brent Chysyk and I, along with 32 fellow outdoor adventurers, took part in the Snowy Owl Sled Dog Tours along Spray Lake, Canmore.
Sixteen teams of six huskies welcomed us with howls and excited licks.
After a 30-minute safety and instruction briefing, the anticipation was building, both amongst the dogs and us.
We took turns guiding the sled. Led by blue-eyed Saban, whom we often shouted words of encouragement, our team of energetic dogs took us on an exhilarating ride through unspoiled mountainous terrain.
Our outing done, we all converged around the campfire and enjoyed hot chocolate and cinnamon buns.
That evening, with the snow lightly falling we walked 20 minutes from our hotel to the quaint town to Murrieta's. Located above shops, our window seat offered magnificent views of the majestic Bow Valley mountain range. The food only competed with the rustic elegance of this popular eatery. With exposed wood beams, floor-to-ceiling wood bar cellar and a large fireplace, we enjoyed a wonderful leisurely meal.
As we laid our heads down in our Whistlerish suite at The Solara Resort and Spa we both agreed that our mushing expedition was a memory we would cherish.
We had arrived in Calgary a few days earlier, guests of Tourism Alberta. After picking up our rental car, we headed to the ultra-chic, contemporary Hotel Arts in downtown Calgary.
The city has changed a lot since Brent lived there more than 25 years ago. Alberta's largest metropolis is filled with new bars, boutiques, restaurants, art, culture and entertainment venues. We often read that Calgary's experiencing a downturn but it wasn't evident downtown - the restaurants were packed, the city alive with energy.
That night, we feasted on some "Vietmodern dishes" at the award-winning Raw Bar. Sharing a culinary journey through crab and mango salad roll, prawn salad, maple ginger black cod and squid a la plancha, we departed with a new appreciation for Vietnamese cuisine.
The next day, we explored the historical Simmons Building in East Village. The former mattress factory has been reinvented into a funky food lovers' destination. Breakfast at the celebrated Sidewalk Citizen Bakery was followed by lunch at Charbar - that was after a brisk walk along the boardwalk that snakes along the Bow River. Charbar's Chopped Canada winning chef Jessica Pelland kept sending over tantalizing dish after dish inspired by Argentina, Spain and Italy.
Our last night in Calgary was spent at the city's first Relais Chateaux Property The Kensington Riverside Inn, located across the Louise Bridge from downtown. After dropping off our bags in our room, we headed out for a walk through this historic, trendy urban village and discovered unique shops and colourful character homes.
As if we hadn't eaten enough, that evening we dined at one of Calgary's newest, hippest eateries, Native Tongues Taqueria. Great atmosphere was teamed up with some amazing Mexican street eats (must try the grilled prawns in chilmole butter and lime).
The next morning, we drove to Banff for a two-night stay at the Buffalo Mountain Lodge. We reached the bucolic lodge in the early afternoon just in time for a two-hour hike along the Tunnel Mountain Trail. Although steep, the trek awarded us with spectacular vistas of Rundle Mountain.
That evening, we dined in the resort's restaurant. Brent started with the elk and followed that with northern caribou medallions. A hunter, he was pleasantly surprised by how delicious and tender the game was.
We soon retired to our rustic, cozy room with its wood burning fireplace. We spent the night cuddled around the crackling fire sipping on a nice bold red.
As a fan of icefalls, a Johnston Canyon Ice walk was a must for me. As soon as we strapped on our ice cleats, we hiked along steel walkways built into the canyon walls and witnessed nature at its best. We traveled through frozen lower and upper falls and blue tinged icicles, while learning about the history and geology of Johnston Canyon. The grand finale is the Cathedral of Ice at the Upper Falls - simply stunning.
A few hours later, we headed to the historic Fairmont Banff Springs for a casual repast. The stately hotel, designed after a grand Scottish castle, opened in 1888 and sits above a scenic bluff overlooking the town of Banff, the Bow River, and the mountainous beauty of Banff National Park.
We dined in the Grapes Wine Bar, which in its former life (circa 1926) was a charming writing room. Chef Tyler Thompson put together a sampling of its most popular charcuteries (elk and buffalo), fine cheese and homemade breads. Couple that with a fine bottle of Poplar Grove merlot and lively conversation with fellow diners (the intimate room fosters chatter amongst tables), we left satiated and quite frankly pretty happy to be in the Canadian Rockies.
The following morning dawned bright and cold. It was off to Lake Louise, where we stayed at the Deer Lodge. A sister lodge to the Buffalo Lodge, it is also an ode to Alberta's rich log/timber design.
That evening, after a pub meal in the aptly named Powder Keg Lounge (raucous and fun, it was filled with après skiers) in the Lake Louise Ski Resort, we went for a nighttime snowshoe. With a sky filled with stars, it was breathtaking journey through towering forest and untouched terrain next to ski trails.
On our last day it was yet another crystal clear day. We met up with Bill Keeling at Wilson Mountain Sports and headed out for an hour crosscountry through a snowy terrain up the Bow River Loop. Heading home: When we planned our trip, we were looking for a vacation getaway with some of the most breathtaking scenery in the world, a place where we could witness unspoiled wilderness and wildlife, lead a dog sled tour, hike, snowshoe, cross country ski and eat some fine cuisine - we got it and more.
