A solid neighbourhood restaurant doesn't have to draw the city's fanatic foodies to find success.
It doesn't have to serve particularly inventive or unusual food, or follow trends - small plates, wacky food science, fusion fare, pork belly and sliders need not appear.
No, a neighbourhood restaurant should be welcoming. Comfort is key. Value, flavour and consistency will make it a local hangout that draws first dates, working parents escaping the stove and old friends out to reconnect. If it does its job meal after meal, then it will endure.
The new Kythira in North Van's Queensbury neighbourhood fits the bill, just like its predecessor, Gambrinus, did before it.
Staff come straight to the door and offer a friendly welcome, then set you up at a table right away. Not much has changed in the eatery's interior appearance: white tablecloths have been flicked over tabletops and blue napkins are folded neatly beside place settings. Otherwise, the same slightly faded, peach and burgundy decor rules.
It's in the ownership and the menu that the changes are more dramatic. New proprietor and chef Horacio Young turns out a workmanlike roster of Mediterranean standbys that will satisfy a broad range of appetites.
There are no surprises here. Look for Greek favourites like spanakopita, keftedes and souvlaki, pizzas and pastas, plus main courses that include Chicken Parmesan and steak.
A bowl of avgolemono (soup made with egg and lemon juice) was perfect for a crisp fall day: like bellywarming chicken noodle with a bright lift from the lemon.
Saganaki (pan-friend Greek cheese) didn't arrive at the table sizzling, but it was deliciously hot and salty, with a rim of golden crust.
Pizza is of the deep dish variety, with a dense, chewy crust, and plenty of room for layered toppings - ours was spicy sausage and plenty of cheese.
The chicken souvlaki platter was the only letdown of the meal. The chicken itself was nicely spiced and seared and the Greek salad a colourful jumble of cucumber, tomato and olives, but the rice was lukewarm and sticky, studded with shrivelled frozen peas.
The wine list could use a little work. It's typical of these small, independent operations - the handful of offerings on it aren't the best available at the price point, but they're cheap and cheerful and the pours are decent.
Despite those slight disappointments, the cheerful welcome and generous portions make Kythira the kind of takes-all-kinds neighborhood hangout that is a pleasure to, well, hang out in. The bill for our dinner, which also included two soft drinks, was $60, including HST.
Kythira Resturant, 707 Queensbury Ave., North Vancouver. Call 6049881331 for more information.
