Potables - Back from a whirlwind trip to the Okanagan and Similkameen, I am yet again amazed by the changes taking place at every turn.
Potables - Back from a whirlwind trip to the Okanagan and Similkameen, I am yet again amazed by the changes taking place at every turn.While the challenge of shaping sub-appellations grinds along with eventuality, it seems (almost by serendipity) the smaller regions are already emerging with their own identity.In 2011 the south valley wineries decided to abandon their namesake South Okanagan Wineries Association and go it alone as Oliver-Osoyoos, excluding their neighbours to the north in Okanagan Falls.Interestingly, the result has been a coalescence among the Okanagan Falls group, who've since formed their own Okanagan Falls Wineries Association (OFWA), with wineries from Penticton to Vaseaux Lake. In doing so they've brought more attention to the very distinct differences in terroir and geography between their region and the south valley, separated by influential McIntyre Bluff.For the most part these are a potent group of formidable, often pioneering, producers including the likes of Blue Mountain, Meyer Family Vineyards, Painted Rock, Stag's Hollow, Wild Goose, and others.Also here is rising star Synchromesh, owned by Alan and Amy Dickinson, whose Rieslings are garnering plenty of well-deserved attention, including from the likes of Stuart Piggott, arguably the wine world's leading Riesling authority, who called their 2012 Storm Haven "the most extraordinary Bladerunner Riesling I've tasted in a long time." (I'd agree: we picked the 2011 as a BC Lieutenant Governor's Award Winner.) "Bladerunner" is the term Piggott uses to describe the style of high-acidity, low-alcohol, unapologetically dry Rieslings being made in some corners of the world, including the Okanagan/Similkameen (think Tantalus, CedarCreek Platinum, Little Farm, and so on.)Such accolades are key in the ongoing broader validation of Riesling, which has had a long, hard climb to acceptance in a mass market too long driven by sweeter styles, which is still abysmally the case when it comes to reds and marketers' preoccupation with debasing wine to the level of Coca Cola.You'll also want to be tracking down the superb, mineral-driven 2013 Storm Haven, which even now is showing extraordinary complexity, with tropical and citrus notes wrapped in keen acidity, with some honeyed notes and formidable length that will no doubt continue to develop ($31.90, 92 points).Dickinson is in the process of building a tasting room to replace his small, original space that competes on the Lilliput scale with Painted Rock's starter. When touring, regardless of where you taste, both Synchromesh and Meyer are two wineries not to be missed.Just to the south, still within OFWA, Liquidity Wines has opened what's sure to become a destination room that, once again, will raise the Okanagan wine touring bar much in the same way that others have, such as Quails' Gate, Tinhorn Creek, Hester Creek, Burrowing Owl and so on.Liquidity offers a stunning setting, with sweeping mountain vistas, an all-white interior (to set off the art), spacious, airy tasting bar and a contemporary styled bistro in the hands of chef Rob Walker (The Cove, Westbank.).Production here is still relatively limited but promising signs abound, from a tropical-and-orange, forward-tangerine-toned Viognier 2013 (89 points), to an excellent dry Rosé (made from rarely planted Dornfelder) that sports good fruit-acid balance, with strawberry, citrus and pomegranate (90 points) Only at the winery.Belly's Budget BestQuails Gate Rosé 2013Lifted notes of strawberry and definite rhubarb hints with crisp and clean citrus, refreshingly dry, very food friendly and flexible. A summer stalwart, for sure (90 points, BCLS $15.99)Tim Pawsey writes about wine for numerous publications and online as the Hired Belly at hiredbelly.com. Contact:
[email protected].
