I'M not sure why but I always figured that cheekily named Fat Bastard had to have something to do either with the guy who might drink it (me) or the guys who made it (Thierry Boudinaud and Guy Anderson).
Now known pretty well the world over, the label was revolutionary for its time when introduced in 1997. Not only because it was rude and irreverent, but also because (even if it was aimed at the U.K. market) it was French, at a time when, well, the French just didn't do that kind of thing to wine labels. Not in those days, anyway.
I met up with Fat Bastard this past week over lunch at Le Crocodile. (Full disclosure: I find resistance to such invites futile.)
While the main purpose was to taste the Gabrielle Meffre Rhone Valley AOC wines, Fat Bastard Chardonnay (Vin de Pays d'Oc) made an appearance as the reception wine: fresh fruit forward, more new world style with some tropical notes and fresh citrus on the palate. Good value for $14.99 (BCLS), and excellent with wild mushroom tartlets (88 pts.).
It's precisely that more generous (but not overblown) character that prompted Anderson, when he tasted the first edition, to say: "That's a fat bastard wine," which it likely was. And the name stuck.
That same good value carries through to Gabrielle Mefffe Plan de Dieu Saint Mapalis, which delivers a juicy, well-structured blend of Grenache (50 per cent), Syrah (30 per cent) and Mouvedre (20 per cent) with good tannins and a touch of spice to close (BCLS Specialty $15.99 89 pts.).
Bump it up a notch for Gabriel Meffre Gigondas Sainte Catherine 2010, medium-bodied, layered and quite plush with solid red berries, rounded tannins, juicy acidity and pepper notes before a long, silky finish (91 pts., BCLS Specialty $32.99).
. . .
What the Okanagan Falls Winery Association may lack in numbers (just a dozen wineries) it more than makes up for in the calibre of membership, which includes notables such as Meyer Family Vineyards, Blue Mountain, Stag's Hollow and Wild Goose, and Painted Rock. Sometimes I wonder just how many winery associations we really need in B.C. Let's just head straight for sub appellations (Painted Rock: Skaha Bluffs) and get on with it.
O(K)FWA, formed after Oliver-Osoyoos Wine Country redefined the South Okanagan, held its inaugural Vancouver tasting at Vancouver's Brix restaurant last week, with no shortage of impressive drops.
Gaining plenty of attention: Syncromesh, just up the way from Blue Mountain. (Yes, there is a passionate vintage car connection.) Their Storm Haven Riesling, grown on glacial gravel and volcanic soils, is on par with Tantalus. It's too late to chase down the 2010, but you can find the 2011 (91 pts., $30), which is developing classic petroleum notes wrapped in briskly clean acidity. And we'll have no problem sipping the vibrant, citrus-toned Syncromesh Thorny Vines Riesling 2012 ($19) or Palo Solara Vineyard Pinot Noir 2011, $25.
A few other standouts (of many): Meyer Family McLean Creek Chardonnay 2010 (distinct minerality with apple and pear notes, with superb fruit and acid balance, $30, 91 pts.); Painted Rock Syrah 2010 (Skaha Bench), which continues to develop with juicy but structured blue fruit and peppery notes, wrapped in polished tannins that make it one of the valley's best Syrahs ($39, 92 pts.); and Blue Mountain Estate Pinot Noir 2011 (still the benchmark B.C. Pinot) silky tannins with well-balanced fruit and oak ($24.90, 90 pts.). Also fun, and just in time for spring, Stag's Hollow Syrah Rosé 2012 (Okanagan Falls): Tangerine and bright red fruit on the nose followed by firm acidity with lively strawberry before a crisp end ($19.99, 90 pts.). To plan tours and track down wines go to ofwa.ca.
Tim Pawsey covers food and wine for numerous publications and online as the Hired Belly at hiredbelly.com. Contact: info@ hiredbelly.com.
