I feel that conversation is a dying art.
Far too often . . . wait. Sorry, I just need to quickly fire off this text. Where’s that funny little emoticon with the tongue sticking out? Got it. Now, where were we?
Increasingly, we relate to each other digitally through status updates, short link-and-hashtag-laden vignettes with tightly controlled character counts, and impersonal expressions of approbation such as the ubiquitous “thumbs-up” symbol.
I can’t help but think that through our social media platforms we are not so much learning a second language as we are replacing our existing one with an abridged and oftentimes deficient version.
I have actually elicited looks of abject terror from young restaurant service staff when I have responded to a query about the quality of my meal by elaborating beyond the word “good.”
Troublingly for many, it seems, there is not yet a one-click sign-out function for face-to-face human interaction. Understandably, when I encountered a skilled conversationalist at Hugo’s Restaurant during a recent visit there, it was my turn to be surprised.
Hugo’s is a gem of a space, a warm and airy chalet-like venue with vaulted windows, distressed wooden floors, stylish, earth-toned furniture, and an open kitchen that makes for fascinating viewing. Situated directly across the street from the marina at Eagle Harbour in West Vancouver, it is admittedly something of a destination restaurant for those not moored nearby, but my dinner experience there has convinced me that it is well worth the trek. I would return to Hugo’s solely for the pleasure of sitting on their sprawling and scenic covered patio in the summertime, although other motivations certainly exist to warrant additional visits.
On the evening of my first Hugo’s experience I was dining alone and took a seat at the bar, a great vantage point from which to survey the meal service. My server, who was handling the entire room by himself in addition to performing bartending duties, had, as my English brother-in-law would say, some top quality chat.
I learned from him, for instance, that Hugo’s undeniably eclectic menu (which ranges from Chicago-style deep-dish pizza to lamb biryani) is not a woefully misguided attempt at global fusion designed to appeal to everyone, but is rather a collection of favourite recipes from destinations around the world assembled by the restaurant’s owner, Bonnie Sauder. Sauder has travelled extensively and has lived in numerous countries, finding favourite dishes in each, which now populate Hugo’s menu.
This was indeed welcome news as, in my experience, the “something for everyone” concept too frequently results in generic fare of little culinary consequence.
Although I would likely support a campaign to proclaim pizza an essential food group, I avoided the Chicago pies on my visit, opting instead for items I have not encountered on menus elsewhere.
First up was a staggeringly large dish of charred Brussels sprouts with toasted walnuts, bacon, lemon juice and blue cheese. Add up the sprouts you’ve had over your last three thanksgiving dinners and you may approximate the volume that was provided on this dish. Admittedly, I glossed over the “charred” part of the menu description when I ordered and so found myself initially taken aback by the partially blackened smokiness of the sprouts.
However, as I delved a bit deeper into the dish and experienced the flavour of the sprouts alongside the wonderfully salty and heady blue cheese and the crispiness of the walnuts, I understood why this recipe had found its way from uncertain origins onto Hugo’s menu: it’s a truly tasty and refreshingly unique combination of flavours.
Next up was a superstar of a squid dish that I will most certainly try to recreate myself. It featured surprisingly tender morsels of loligo gahi squid in black pepper and garlic sauce, served with rice and slaw. The preparation is purportedly popular in Thailand. Hugo’s version is delectably spicy and potent, the black pepper being a focal flavour. The whole dish is charmingly served in a steel frying pan, a vessel used for a number of the restaurant’s items.
My final meal item was called Crackling Fried Chicken Thighs and provided some of the best fried chicken I’ve had in ages. Skin-on chicken thighs were dredged in batter with garlic, shallots, and cilantro root and deep-fried to crispy, golden perfection. The thigh meat, which is substantially more flavourful than breast meat, remained moist and succulent inside its shell of crispy skin and tasty batter.
I would be remiss to not mention Hugo’s collection of truly fascinating art pieces that adorn the room. Restaurant artwork can so often feel perfunctory and impersonal, but here, each item seems to tell the story of its origin, a story that is supported by Hugo’s thoughtful menu and retold, with commendable engagement, by the staff.
Hugo’s is located at 5775 Marine Dr., Eagle Harbour, West Vancouver. eagleharbour.ca
Chris Dagenais served as a manager for several restaurants downtown and on the North Shore. A self-described wine fanatic, he earned his sommelier diploma in 2001. Contact: [email protected].
