Any time now, the question is bound to arise about which wines to pair with turkey, not to mention with the rest of Christmas dinner or the big holiday meal.
The good news is that it doesn’t have to be that complicated since there’s no shortage of flavours on the plate, which makes coming up with a good match (or two) pretty easy.
It’s not only about the turkey but also about the gravy, cranberry sauce and whatever your favourite stuffing recipe might be. In short, you’re looking for wines that complement rather than overpower the flavours, so it makes sense to lean towards medium-bodied reds and unoaked (or minimally oaked) and more aromatic whites.
It’s also a good idea to have a couple of wines on offer, including a good sparkling that can serve as a reception wine and also be poured throughout the meal. Offering a choice makes sense, especially if your menu includes seafood or vegetarian options.
I asked Peller-Sandhill master winemaker Howard Soon about his turkey preferences.
“Both Pinot Noir and Merlot work well with the darker meats, while Cabernet Sauvignon tends to be too big. Good Pinot, especially with a red wine gravy is hard to beat, and Merlot’s soft plummy notes go well with cranberry sauce,” he suggests.
Soon’s widely available Sandhill Cabernet Merlot 2011 (from a rocky slope in the Similkameen) delivers plenty of red and black berry notes with a touch of spice; good structure from the Cab with the plushness of Merlot, wrapped in approachable tannins before a lingering finish. Plus it can do double duty with the cheese course. Good value for BCLS $19.99 (90 points).
As for the breast meat, the choices are just as varied, says Soon. Even though everyone talks about Gewurztraminer (because it’s a crowd pleaser, usually off-dry and fruity), “I’m more inclined to (go for) Pinot Blanc,” says the winemaker, who prefers the richer, drier styles, often with a touch of oak.
We have a tradition of drinking “local” at our festive dinner.
Here’s a clutch of (mainly) easy-to-find B.C. wines that will do justice to any holiday table.
Cipes Brut
Summerhill’s sparkler blends riesling and Chardonnay with a splash of Pinot Blanc. The result is appealing apple-and-pear notes on top followed by firm, food-friendly acidity and a broad, creamy mouthfeel (BCLS $24.95).
CedarCreek Gewurztraminer 2012
This classic Gewurz sports rose petal and floral notes on top before a luscious palate, with hints of ginger, orange and a touch of minerality. Excellent value at BCLS $17.99 (90 points).
Blue Mountain Gamay Noir 2012
This one may not be so easy to find but grab it if you can. Deliciously juicy raspberry and black fruit with savoury and spice notes in a medium-bodied palate that evolves beautifully in a big glass ($21-$24 private stores, 91 points).
Stoneboat Pinot Noir 2011
A worthy nod to Burgundy, or maybe more New Zealand’s Martinborough, lighter bodied with aromas of fresh strawberries before a juicy cherry-and-strawberry toned palate with savoury notes and elegant tannins ($24.89, 90 points).
Quails’ Gate Stewart Family Reserve Pinot Noir 2011
The flagship wine from Quails’ Gate’s Pinot program (arguably the Okanagan’s most carefully developed) delivers ripe berries and violet notes on the nose followed by layers of red and black cherry on the palate with silky tannins, some spicy hints and a lingering close (BCLS $45, 91 points).
Black Sage Vineyard Pipe 2008
This is the first vintage of former Sumac Ridge Pipe under the new Black Sage banner. “Pipe” was Harry McWatters’ inspired name that refers to the original “Pipa,” a Portuguese vessel of 550 litres. This has pleasing raisin, blackberry, black cherry and fig notes, looks and tastes very port-like (aged in neutral oak for three years), and is a worthy partner for a good stilton and walnuts. (Private Wine Stores, 500 mililitres, prices vary, 90 points.) Note: you can still find the Sumac Ridge Pipe 2007, currently on special at BCLS for $22.99.
Tim Pawsey covers food and wine for numerous publications and online as the Hired Belly at hiredbelly.com. His regular column appears in the Sunday print editions of the North Shore News. Contact: rebelmouse.com/hiredbelly, on Twitter @hiredbelly or email [email protected].
