To paraphrase the great Jack White, I said it once before but it bears repeating now: this is a fantastic job.
It’s every bit as good as people imagine it to be. Dining out is one of life’s greatest pleasures and dining out with purpose, to share with others what I learn, to consider an experience carefully, to understand its broader context, is simply sublime.
One element of this job that certainly never grows old is the fun of anonymity. For those who may not know, I never share my identity at a restaurant.
The whole point of this column is to report back on an experience that anyone else could replicate upon visiting the same place themselves. The obvious exceptions are when I am setting out to interview a chef or restaurateur in order to get a better handle on their business.
In those cases I make arrangements in advance, but typically those columns are not focused on experiences that can be custom tailored or improved in any way to woo me as a reviewer; a bakery, a distillery, a brewery, a chocolatier – none of these businesses can alter their offerings in order to heighten their chances of a good review.
Our newspaper’s photographers visit the restaurants I review on separate trips, never with me, and cannot confirm for the business whether I have already been there or if a visit is still pending.
My recent visit to Ambleside Bistro, a tiny new West Vancouver eatery with a big, big heart, reminded me yet again how much fun it is to simply blend into the background.
Co-owner Omar Hash was manning the fort alone when I arrived. Figuring the last customer of the evening had come and gone already, he had the quiet bistro in the preliminary stages of winding down. Nevertheless, Hash graciously rebooted the place and engaged me in conversation about the culinary approach of the restaurant.
At one point, Hash, referring to the newspaper’s photographer Paul McGrath’s visit a few days prior, said: “The North Shore News came by last week. Man, I really hope it’s a good review.”
I nodded in sympathetic assent. “Yeah, I hope that works out for you. I’m sure at least the pictures will be good!”
Omar, let me tell you this: the phenomenal aromas emanating from the slowly braised meats that are the specialty of your bistro, paired with your easy, enthusiastic hospitality, had already put you on the path to a good review. Then, the sigh-inducing deliciousness of the Brisket Provencal baguette sandwich sealed the deal.
The sandwich, packed with falling-to-pieces, slowly cooked brisket steeped in the wonderful herbes de Provence flavours of thyme, rosemary, and savory, with Gouda cheese, lettuce, tomato, purple onion and, in an inspired bit of taste-enhancement, fresh mint leaves, was a treat, the perfect fall comfort combo. Hash explained that the thick, hearty brisket braising stock had proven so popular that he had patrons come back just for another taste of it.
The stock is served in a ramekin on the side of the sandwich and, according to Hash, is best employed when it is poured, one dollop at a time, directly onto the next bite of the baguette. I have to concur, that stock is delicious, rich, deep, and thick with morsels of brisket.
While awaiting the second dish of my order, Provence-style Spaghetti Bolognese, Hash generously offered me samples of two more of Ambleside Bistro’s core dishes, a thick and satisfying, housemade tomato bisque made with fresh Roma tomatoes and a spectacularly flavoursome chicken ragout, which is served as a baguette sandwich.
The chicken, also fall-apart tender, revealed fragrant, round notes of what I suspect was bay leaf, celery and white wine. I cannot confirm these ingredients, mind, as the recipe is a closely guarded secret, a competitive business advantage. Hash positively brims with pride when he describes partner, head chef and co-owner Ava Atkinson’s cooking. It is nice to see a restaurant owner so thoroughly moved by his business’s own offerings; it inspires confidence in the diner.
The spaghetti was a hearty, generously portioned affair. Unlike a more traditional Italian Bolognese, Atkinson’s Provence-inspired effort did not rely heavily on tomatoes, featuring rather a dense mixture of ground meat studded with carrots, celery, onion and a bold handful of southern French herbs. The result was a filling meal, more stew than pasta with sauce.
The interior of Ambleside Bistro is bright and minimalist, with just two communal tables and matching light beech flooring. Some large canvasses, featuring stylized cats in various poses, decorate the walls and add to a sense of playfulness that pervades the space. A couple of outdoor tables will likely find favour again in the spring, but I anticipate that this new addition to West Vancouver’s dining scene is going to be popular for take-out, given its affordable rib-sticking fare and generous portions.
Indeed, Hash relayed to me that he had to close up shop early one recent Sunday due to a sudden rush of parents raiding the joint following soccer practice. The onslaught cleaned the café out of food and may be a sign of trends to come.
My meal of baguette sandwich and an order of spaghetti to go was $22.
Ambleside Bistro is located at 105-1425 Marine Dr. 604-921-1340. amblesidebistro.com
Chris Dagenais served as a manager for several restaurants downtown and on the North Shore. A self-described wine fanatic, he earned his sommelier diploma in 2001. He can be reached via email at [email protected].
