WHILE it may not quite be just around the corner, next year's wine festival is looming faster than you think.
The 2012 Playhouse fundraising extravaganza - now widely regarded as the premier consumer wine show on the continent - rolls into our shiny new convention centre Feb. 27 to March 4.
Two words you'll be hearing plenty of in conjunction with the weeklong event are "Chile" and "Cabernet," Chile being this year's theme region, and Cabernet the global focus - which means there'll be Chilean wines and Cabernets of every kind at every turn.
Given the shaky state of the world economy, the choice of Chile as theme region couldn't have come at a better time.
Few other wine-producing countries enjoy Chile's increasingly impressive track record for making valuedriven wines at every price level. In the trade it's known as "QPR," or Quality-Price Ratio. And the Chileans have it in spades.
Chile's success, ironically, has been a two-edged sword. The country established its original claim to fame almost solely on budget wines: a worthy rep that's hard to shake at the best of times.
But as next year's wine fest will prove, the country has expanded its repertoire considerably since all anyone could think about was Chilean Valle Central Merlot, now with a veritable stable of well-made varieties, and from an increasing number of distinct and contrasting regions, many almost entirely sustainably farmed.
Oh sure, the value-based wines are still there, often much improved, as in the case of Vina Santa Caroliña Reserva Sauvignon Blanc 2010, an apple-and citrustoned, clean finishing, affordable drop that delivers classic varietal character for BCLS $12.99. Now sourced from up and coming maritime-influenced Leyda, it's a vastly different wine from the one that used to show up a decade back under the same label. Think zippy party sipping or simple shellfish matches.
By contrast, at the other end of the spectrum, you can almost sink your teeth into the deliciously textured and leesy Undurraga TH (as in Terroir Hunter) Sauvignon Blanc 2008. This is a wine that could change your perception of Sauvignon Blanc entirely, with lifted tropical aromas, some lemon-lime notes and layered complexity, both from the age and from stainless steel barrel fermentation, which is what contributes to its heft. Hunt it down (PWS) for around $23-$25.
Defenders of Burgundy may scoff at the very notion of a $65 Chilean Pinot, but Cono Sur Ocio Pinot Noir 2009 could easily hold its own with a couple of similarly priced wines from both old and new world. This reminds me of some highly appealing, savoury-toned New Zealand Martinborough wines, with a purity of focused fruit and measured, approachable tannins. Made in a dedicated winery within Cono Sur, it's another example of how that winery really delivers "QPR" at every level.
We've been lucky enough, over the years, to taste older vintages of Cousino Macul Antiguas Reservas Cab Sauv. that have displayed amazing staying power. If you have the space, you could tuck away the quietly spicy, blackfruited and sensibly oaked 2010 for easily a decade or more. Or, drink it now with something meaty and grilled. BCLS $21.99
For most people (consumers and marketers alike) $20 is still the sweet spot, the holy grail of wine pricing for which everyone aims. If you can over deliver for under twenty-as does Santa Rita's Medalla Real Cab Sauv. 2008 (lively, expressive red and black fruit, perfectly harmonized tannins, fruit and acidity, BCLS $19.99) - then you've got it made.
And so has Chile.
Earlybird tickets are on-sale now: www. playhousewinefest.com or call 604-873-3311.
