Last week’s Sonoma in the City tasting yielded no shortage of evidence as to why Sonoma County continues to be well received up here on our somewhat wetter and undeniably less foggy patch of Pacific coastline.
Maybe in part it’s that natural affinity with B.C. that helps us keep a place in our hearts for our neighbour’s wines. But beyond that there’s no question that Sonoma appeals in terms of both style and value, as well as (which also makes sense) being well suited to our own West Coast style of cuisine.
It’s been interesting to watch Sonoma County’s evolution over the years. Especially in regards to Chardonnay, whose fruit now receives a much better chance to shine under more sophisticated and dutifully restrained oak programs, while Pinot Noir continues to flourish in its own right, with plenty to tempt now not only from Carneros, where it gained its foothold, but also from elsewhere.
The fog that rolls in like clockwork is key to Sonoma County’s cooler climate pedigree, particularly in Sonoma Coast. While the fog burns off more quickly in the warmer, inland areas such as Russian River, the coast can be reliably socked in until well into the day.
Standouts from an array of Sonoma County Pinot Noirs include:
Kosta Browne Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2012: Aromas of bright, ripe berries and cocoa hints, followed by blue and black fruit with cassis notes in perfect fruit/acid balance (91 points).
Siduri Keefer Ranch Russian River Pinot Noir 2012: Up-front red berries, followed by complex blueberry and cassis notes with superb, juicy acidity and great length, with definite savoury edge (92 points).
Some value Sonoma drops worth tracking down include:
Kunde Sonoma Valley Chardonnay 2012: Creamy notes on top followed by tropical and melon notes with good mouthfeel (Everything Wine, $24.99, 89 points).
Ferrari Carano Fume Blanc 2012: Floral and stonefruit up front with tropical kiwi and citrus lime notes on a vibrant, juicy palate, with a touch of oak to add texture and interest. Never too late for Valentine’s Day, for years this was one of my go-to crab wines. It’s wicked with Dungeness and drawn lemon butter (BCLS $24.99, 90 points).
Pedroncelli Dry Creek Sonoma County 2011 Zinfandel: Luscious forward cherry and dark fruits with some nice peppery notes, mouth-filling and a good close. Excellent value, PWS $20-ish, 89 points.
MacRostie Sonoma Coast Wildcat Chardonnay 2012: From plantings that make the most of the windy, foggy setting, this stylish Chard incorporates from several Sonoma sites, including high up Wildcat Mountain. Up-front citrus, followed by pear and zesty notes with balanced acidity and understated oak.Think sautéed scallops or grilled halibut (BCLS $29.99, 91 points).
Foppiano Lot 96 Petite Sirah 2011: Forward blackberry, dark chocolate, mocha and spice notes with easy tannins and juicy acidity ($20-ish, 89 points).
Tim Pawsey covers food and wine for numerous publications and online as the Hired Belly at hiredbelly.com. Contact: [email protected].
