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Smaller wineries a draw at Top Drop

Last week saw the unveiling of a new beverage festival in the form of Top Drop Vancouver. The initial two-day event, which focused on terroir-based smaller wineries, was well received and looks set for success.
Pawsey Sept 21 2

Last week saw the unveiling of a new beverage festival in the form of Top Drop Vancouver.

The initial two-day event, which focused on terroir-based smaller wineries, was well received and looks set for success. The key was the selection of smaller wineries (and breweries) that appealed to a more curious taster, not to mention the ever more sophisticated sommelier community looking to liven up their list.

Top Drop organizers chose Main Street’s Heritage Hall to launch the event. It’s a warm and welcoming space that suited the small but select group of wineries and breweries (and often their principals) on hand. I have a hunch that based on the response it’s a space they might quickly outgrow.

Here’s just a snapshot of what you would have discovered at Top Drop, an event defined as much by who was there as who was not. Some of these less commercial names may be a little more challenging to track down, but you should go out on a limb occasionally to taste something different and even esoteric. Maybe pretend you’re a sommelier and surprise your friends.

Ben Marco Torrontes 2013 (Mendoza)
A very different take on Torrontes, this wine is fermented for three months in French Oak, which gives a little added heft. Mix in some toasty aromas with precise stonefruit and lime notes on the palate, and you might find yourself re-thinking Argentina’s mainstay white ($22, private wine stores, including Everything Wine, 91 points).

Ben Marco Expresivo Malbec 2012 (Mendoza)
Blend of mainly Malbec with 20 per cent Cab Sauv., plus Syrah, Tannat, Petit Verdot and Bonarda yield intense dark cherry and mocha notes up front followed by a plush and opulent palate with generous but elegant black fruit, and toast and anise notes in a lingering finish (BCLS $41.99, 92 points).

Kunde Sonoma Valley Chardonnay 2012
Californians love to come north and tell us they’ve pulled back on the oak, but this one really has. Gentle toast and vanilla notes on top, followed by tropical and citrus with lively acidity, some creaminess and a clean, lingering finish. An excellent balance of fruit and acidity, with quite restrained oak and with a definite mineral hint (private wine stores, $25-$29, 90 points).

Vina Gravonia Blanco Crianza 2004 (Bodegas Heredia, Rioja)
White Rioja you say? Yes indeed, and I can assure you this is one of the most intriguing Spanish wines you’ll ever taste. Plus it’s 10 years old. It gets left in oak for four whole years. Nutty, layered and complex, almost fino-esque, with herbal and stony mineral notes through a very focused palate. Try it with a piece of Spanish cheese. Unquestionably the most intriguing wine of the day (BCLS $39.50, 92 points).

Chateau de Montfaucon Les Gardettes Rouge 2011
Blend of mainly Syrah, vibrant berry fruits on the nose followed by juicy blackberry and cherry notes wrapped in easy tannins before a good close (excellent value, private wine stores $18-$20, 90 points).

Finca Decero Syrah 2011 (Mendoza)
This is one more reason why, when it comes to Argentina, you should (at least occasionally) think beyond Malbec. From this single-vineyard specialist comes a not-so-shy Syrah with enticing black fruit and toast on the nose followed by an intense but polished palate with good focus and acidity. Think serious grilled red meat ($25.99, Everything Wine, 91 points).

Vina Koyle Syrah Reserva 12 (Colchagua)
Chile’s Vina Koyle has a well-earned reputation for good-value wines, and for under $20 this certainly delivers. Classic, meaty-gamey varietal notes on top, with a generous but structured palate of plum and mulberry, pepper spice and coffee notes wrapped in easy tannins (tremendous value, BCLS $18.99, 90 points).

Tim Pawsey writes about wine for numerous publications and online as the Hired Belly at hiredbelly.com. Contact: [email protected].