THE Hired Belly is beginning to think it's time we named the third week in September "B.C. Wine Week."
Seriously. After all - if you're not picking it in the Okanagan or Similkameen, chances are you're tasting it in Vancouver or somewhere else.
Several noteworthy events in the last few days produced no shortage of validation for local drops, among them a rare gathering of Similkameen Valley grape and fruit wine producers at newly hatched Edible Canada at the (Granville Island) Market.
Tastes out of the stunningly beautiful valley continue to underscore Similkameen's emergence as the province's most dynamic new region - although, of course, it's not really "new" at all - just coming out of the next door neighbour's shadow.
It used to be that almost all Similkameen grapes wound up under Okanagan Valley labels but the recently formed Similkameen Wineries Association is helping to change all that, allowing the valley's distinctive character to show through.
Riesling, Chardonnay (often as not unoaked), Cabernet Franc and Pinot Noir are coming to the fore as the valley's varietals that seem to do consistently well.
Then again, we were also wowed by the inaugural Syrah 2009 from Orofino, with its varietally true, meaty, gamey aromas followed by a broad, juicy black fruit and peppery palate. ($28.90 at the winery, or some PWS)
Here's a clutch of recommendations that will give you a sense as to what the Similkameen's all about.
- Orofino Riesling 2010. It's tough to narrow down the choices from John and Virginia Weber's 10-year-old straw bale winery but this dry Riesling sports tropical and citrus notes wrapped in zingy minerality that just seems to shout "Similkameen"; $19.90. Also worth a mention, the creamy, broadly textured and cautiously oaked Chardonnay. ($24.90)
- Seven Stones 2009 Cabernet Franc yields aromas of black fruit and toasty oak with a structured, juicy raspberry-and mochatoned palate before a long smooth and spicy close; $28. Also of note, Row 128 Merlot '09. ($24.99)
- Cerelia unoaked Chardonnay 2009. A decidedly mineral-toned drop that again underscores the region with apple and citrus notes on a well balanced palate; $18.90.
- Robin Ridge Gamay
Noir 2009. Bright cherry notes on top followed by a broad, raspberry-and spice-toned palate underpinned by easy tannins with a hint of slate to end; $21.90.
- Eau Vivre Cabernet Franc 2009. Spice and herbal notes on the nose with a distinctly spicy and peppery palate that opens up in the glass with balanced fruit and acidity; $22.
- Rustic Roots Apricot 2009. Similkameen has a long history of fruit growing, personified in a handful of solid fruit wineries. Try this seductive, orange and floral toned apricot drop as a perfect dessert wine, on its own or with fruit topped cheesecake; $28.
Here's a thought, if you're bound for the Okanagan Wine Festival, consider a detour to check out what's happening around Cawston and Keremeos. Chances are you'll be pleasantly surprised. Not only that, the scenery down south is even more spectacular than usual at this time of year. Plan your visits at similkameenwine.com.
You can also taste more Similkameen wines when Herder Vineyards comes to Salt, Nov. 22, part of the Salt Cellar tasting series ($40) email [email protected].
