In 1982, Mr. Fung, the owner of the local corner shop where I bought hockey cards on a regular basis, knew me by name.
A pack of O-Pee-Chee cards cost 35 cents then. I had a giant stack of them that included an enviable lineup of team favourites such as Richard Brodeur, Kevin McCarthy, Stan Smyl, Harold Snepsts, and doubles of the ultimate trading card of the season for hero-worshipping grade school children: Tiger Williams.
The Canucks lost the 1982 Stanley Cup final series, succumbing to a straight sweep by the New York Islanders. I wasn’t as passionate about my card collection after that, somehow, and I have only followed hockey since to the extent that I can participate in superficial conversation about the starting lineup.
The Canucks have just been eliminated from round one of the 2015 Stanley Cup playoffs. It has to be said, getting that far is a commendable feat in its own right and I still feel a degree of pride living in a city whose professional hockey team is recognized as formidable opponents.
Their loss disappointed me most because it demanded a new hook for this week’s column, in which I consider The Raven Pub. My angle, you see, was that The Raven is a top-notch place for hockey fans because it offers two very enjoyable ways to watch the game: on several big screens in the pub itself, surrounded by friends and a large contingent of loyal regulars, or at home with delicious pizza, wings and beer sourced from the pub, which has a smart, streamlined take-out service.
I was banking on a second round of the playoffs to make this case, but the truth is, the elimination has led me to a better angle, courtesy of Raven owner Jennifer Crawford who, for 15 years and one month, has worked to build a regular following for her pub that is impervious to the fleeting glories of the local pro teams.
Following my recent meal, I reached out to Crawford to get her take on the impact of sports on the bottom line of her business. Her perspective was matter-of-fact and practical.
“A lengthy playoff run is only moderately important since we feature lots of sports,” says Crawford. “And this year there seems to be less enthusiasm overall than there has been in the past, with people in the pub not even paying much attention to the game.”
Crawford is on to something here, I think, and a quick look at The Raven’s Facebook page gives us a clue what it is. The pub is a firm supporter of the local community, having forged strong relationships with the mountain biking and kayaking sets, extending special offers, event support, contests and targeted invitations to the people that are ultimately going to fill seats.
What is a pub, after all, but a gathering place for locals? Entertainment, including hockey, is of secondary importance; the moment you hang your hat on broadcasting the big game, you undermine the significance of the social experience facilitated by your establishment and present yourself as a one-trick pony. It’s a precarious business model that requires the success of a third-party franchise to meet financial projections.
In any event, on my recent visit to The Raven, I was reminded of my previous experiences there and how it has always struck me as a proper U.K.-style pub, lived-in and full of character.
Under chef Rory Turo, who joined the team late in 2013, The Raven’s menu has become more cosmopolitan, with items like Halibut Tacos, Quinoa Chicken Salad with Shimeji Mushrooms, and Braised Beef Poutine complementing pub favourites like Ploughman’s Lunch, burgers, club sandwiches and wings. Still, The Raven maintains the atmosphere of a classic pub and, by admitting whole families during the day, has actually brought itself even more in line with the U.K. pub ethos, where a Sunday lunch visit to the local public house can be a real treat for the kids.
My pizza arrived piping hot and stacked high. The Raven’s regular crust, made in-house, is a delicious, dense and chewy affair, the stylistic opposite of the thin and crispy Neapolitan pizza that is de rigueur right now.
Thin crust pizza is available on request, but for my taste it is a pleasure to sink my teeth into a well-made, deep-dish style pie. I opted to try two pizza creations, the Jambalaya, which featured a generous portion of large prawns, wheels of thinly sliced and tangy chorizo sausage, roasted peppers, onions and spicy banana peppers.
The second pie was a deep and satisfying Veggie Mediterranean, with garlicky and herbaceous pesto, tender artichoke hearts, spinach and feta. The pizza paired nicely with a proper pint of Bridge Kolsh beer. The Raven’s hot wings are meaty and crisp with a sufficient but not overwhelming degree of heat.
Raven patrons can order pizza to bring home from a small, street-level take-out space. If you present a food bill of $25 or more at the neighbouring Raven Cold Beer & Wine Store, you will receive 10 per cent off your beer or wine selection.
The Raven Pub is located at 1052 Deep Cove Rd. theravenpub.com 604-929-3834
Chris Dagenais served as a manager for several restaurants downtown and on the North Shore. A self-described wine fanatic, he earned his sommelier diploma in 2001. Contact: [email protected].
