Judging by the excitement in the room the other day you could have sworn it was a Burgundy tasting, except it wasn't.
The occasion was the first major Vancouver offering of wines from Portugal for probably over a decade. As a result, hundreds of industry types and wine lovers were circling the tables in a somewhat cosy space on top of the Vancouver Art Gallery.
I've known for some time that Portuguese wines are undervalued, too often dismissed merely as affordable entry-level wines and are long overdue for a return to an always-curious market.
Wine Align's Treve Ring led a session through a preview that easily demonstrated the variety and quality to be found in Portugal.
The country's wines have improved by leaps and bounds since all anyone knew was Mateus Rosé, and even that's improved. These days I don't think anybody has any doubt concerning what's in the bottle. Although, especially given the consumer's preoccupation with knowing every grape used, there's a bit of a learning curve to understand the varieties. They can be challenging to read and pronounce, but that shouldn't be a deterrent to enjoying the wines.From what I was tasting, I would be thrilled if even 10 per cent of these were able to make it into the Vancouver market. Based on this tasting my guess is there'll be a whole lot more wines coming, especially from regions such as Tejo and Alantejo.
Here's four well worth your attention:Quinta do Ameal-Vinho Verde Branco 2011 (Ponte de Lima) The perfect summer drop: Aromas of green apple and pear with juicy acidity, good length and lingering zesty notes with a touch of mineral. Think oysters or crispy fried smelts. (BCLS $17.49, 90 points).
Domingos Soares Franco Private Collection (Setubal) Moscatel Roxo Rosé 2013Portugal can be so exciting! This wine sports floral and rose petal aromas, with distinct Turkish delight before a dry, fruity palate with a clean, acidity-driven end (BCLS $20.99, 90 points).Vale do Bomfim Tinto 2009 (Douro) Great table wine from legendary port producers, Symington. Five more common Portuguese varieties make up this
and well-rounded but well-structured, gently peppery, plummy and black-fruited medium-bodied red (BCLS $19.99, 91 points).Quinta do Crasto Tinto 2011 (Douro) Classic value from one of the Douro's originals, and one of Europe's oldest vineyard sites. Made from four varieties including Tinto Roriz and Touriga Naçional. Well-balanced fruit and acidity with red and black berry notes before a lengthy and layered palate. Fire up the barbecue! BCLS $19.99, 91 pointsBelly's Budget BestQuails' Gate Gewürztraminer 2013 (Westbank)There's no time like summer to go for the Gew, especially when it's as good as this. A benchmark Okanagan Gewurz from new winemaker Nikki
Callaway offers classic varietal notes of rose petal and lychee with definite elegance and good length in a slightly drier style. Think lightly spiced Thai seafood dishes or just sip and enjoy (BCLS $16.99, 90 points).
Tim Pawsey writes about wine for numerous publications and online as the Hired Belly at hiredbelly.com. Contact: [email protected].
