PSST. Want to know where the best view in the city is?
I've got the goods.
I'm not talking about a perspective that can only be had from a private residence, or say, from a boat. Entries in this scene star showdown must come with a table and access to a drink, a snack or a meal.
Sure, the point is debatable. There are dazzling panoramas from points at high altitude, like at The Observatory on Grouse Mountain, or at Fraiche in the British Properties. Scenic vistas abound along Marine Drive in West Vancouver, in Deep Cove, and under the Ironworkers Memorial Bridge.
But for the flat-out, up-close, sea-level look at the sparkle of Vancouver's city lights, the new Pier 7 Restaurant + Bar has got it nailed. Built on the boardwalk of the historic Victory Shipyards in Lower Lonsdale, the restaurant has 180-degree views of the working port, the cruise ship traffic, and Stanley Park.
After a few delays, the new eatery finally opened May 22, and I waited impatiently for a few weeks to pass (to allow opening kinks to shake out) before stopping in for a visit. It wasn't easy. I've long been a fan of executive chef Dino Renaerts' elegant, thoughtful food. The born-and-bred Vancouverite has been working burners in this town for more than two decades, which have included stints in the kitchens of Bishops, Le Gavroche, Canadian Pacific Hotels and Resorts, West, Hotel Georgia, Diva at the Met, and most recently, at Fraiche. Pairing his food with this location leads to obviously high expectations.
I wasn't the only one who had them. When I called to make a reservation for a Wednesday evening, tables were only available at 5 p.m. or 8 p.m. - surprising for a weeknight in sleepy North Van. And when I rolled in for that 8 p.m. reservation with my regular dinner date, Big J, the place was still buzzing, with every table full.
I like the interior, though it may not appeal to all. There are a lot of medium brown hues: tables, chairs, booths, wood panels and wallpaper; but it's warm, and provides a neutral background for that over-the-top view. Tables in the dining room are laid out over two levels, which means everyone gets to look out the windows, and those sitting in booths against the north wall even have a strip of mirror that reflects the city lights for extra flash. I'm not as convinced about the underwater scene inset between the ceiling panels, and I suspect the room is on the small side, but overall, I like this space and the somehow cosy, but wide-open feeling it evokes. The patio, obviously, has the tables to get this summer - if summer ever shows up, that is.
We checked out the menu. There's a lot here; it's seafood-focused, and though it isn't Ocean Wise, there's an obvious effort to make sustainable and seasonal choices.
Starters ($9 - $20) run the gamut from picks from the Raw Bar to West Coast seafood nachos - topped with spice-rubbed tuna and shrimp - to more elegant appetizers like beef carpaccio.
There is a Pier 7 chowder, plus a handful of fresh salads that can be weighted with prawns, salmon, chicken or steak.
Like your shellfish steamed? Pick your bivalve: you can order Salt Spring Island honey mussels or Manila clams by the pound, steamed in your pick of broth.
Mains ($20 - $34) include half a dozen seafood picks - think grilled spring salmon or pan-seared North Coast halibut. Landbased picks include a lamb sirloin, chicken breast, steak or gnocchi. Though most dishes seem to be plated with accompaniments, there are also tempting side dishes available to order: seafood mac n' cheese, buttered green beans and pommes frites among them.
This menu isn't groundbreaking, but frankly, there's not much call for fussy cuisine on this side of the inlet, and this menu has something for everyone.
Our seafood tower for two ($33) consisted of oysters (with mignonette), prawns (with cocktail sauce), tuna tataki and chilled mussels, artfully arranged on a two-tier serving tray. Super fresh and served simply, what you order is exactly what you get with this one.
My maple miso-glazed sable fish seemed slightly overcrisped on top, but the fish was as velvety as I like it, and the delicate dashi broth, loaded with shiimeji mushrooms offered sublime depth of flavour. The only quibble in this dish: bland new potatoes added very little, and seemed like filler. I left them in the bowl.
Big J's rib eye - a hefty 10-ounce wedge smothered in red wine jus and sided by roasted broccolini and crisp fries - was elegant and saucy, every bite full of juicy flavour.
The wine list is terrific; not surprising when you consider that Renaerts was the first chef in Canada to be a certified sommelier. There is a considerable list of curated wines by the class, and the rest of the list, with bottles from around the world, is divvied up by style, and even by best pairings (like "Oyster Friendly").
With my sable fish I opted for a glass of supple, cherried 2008 Inniskillin Pinot Noir, while Big J loved his 2007 Sabor Real Vinas Centenarias Tempranillo.
Service throughout our meal suffered from a few slow spots, but our server was friendly, and never let us feel neglected. These are still early days, and the place is hopping, so minor delays can be easily forgiven. We were in no rush.
The bill for our meal, including HST, added up to $129.92.
Pier 7 Restaurant + Bar is at 25 Wallace Mews, North Vancouver; 604-929-7437/ pierseven.ca.
