The other day I meandered my way up towards the northern end of Lake Okanagan to check out 50th Parallel Estate for the first time.
With its steep, southwest-facing, well-drained slopes and focus very much on Pinot Noir (made by former Quails' Gate winemaker, and co-owner, Grant Stanley) this is yet one more landmark winery in the making.
Unlike many other wineries, 50th Parallel is focused on just four varieties, all estate planted, with plans for at least 40 per cent of the production going into Pinot Noir. Even though the plantings are still relatively young, Stanley's experience and his ability to truly focus solely on the home vineyard (about 45 acres planted) is already paying dividends.
Late this summer a state-of-the-art, gravity flow winery will be completed, just in time for the 2014 vintage. By 2016 there will be a multi-
purpose reception facility and spa. It's an interesting juxtaposition.
Or, as co-owner Sheri-Lee Turner-Krouzel likes to say, "You'll be able to detox then retox!" I'm struck by the house style that's emerging. These are very focused wines, varietally true, lean in a good way, without being sparse, for the most part dry finished and very food friendly. Already, Stanley's latest releases, including 2013 Pinot Noir, are starting to garner attention in major competitions.
50th Parallel 2012 Pinot Noir: Cherry and dark red berry notes with an appealing savoury edge below clean fruit expression. Medium-bodied with a touch of mineral wrapped in good acidity before a long finish (91 points, $32, gold, All-Canadian Wine Awards).
50th Parallel 2013 Pinot Gris: Lifted citrus and orchard fruit, green apple, spice and good balance with a crisp, clean finish ($18, 89 points).
50th Parallel 2013 Pinot Noir Rosé: Bright strawberry and red fruits on top, followed by a juicy, lively palate with a little herbal edge ($18, 90 points).
A word of advice if you go: try not to wind up on the new parkway that will transport you with no chance of escape halfway to Vernon. Ideally, either take Oceala Road from Highway 97 (before the parkway) and wend your way up via Gray Monk or Intrigue; stick close to the shores of Lake Okanagan and you'll find 50th Parallel close to the end of Terrace View road.
Speaking of landmark wineries: Black Hills Nota Bene 2012 The flagship blend is still approachably Merlot-dominant but has enough Cab Sauv (35 per cent) that delivers extra heft, along with Cabernet Franc. Look for black fruit aromas and earthy plum notes, with luscious blackberry and anise on the supple, full-bodied palate, and a touch of vanilla and spice wrapped in well-integrated tannins before a lingering, peppery close (92 points). The bad news? You'll have to dig hard to find it. Best head smartly to the winery to taste it in one of the valley's most sophisticated and fun settings.
Just introduced this year: food from Joy Road Vineyard Kitchen, as well as daily poolside Happy Hour, complete with DJ and two-for-one tasting deals. Check blackhillswinery.com for details.
Belly's Best
Heartland Spice Trader 2012 (South Australia): Fire up the barbie for this Shiraz Cab with a difference made by star Barossa winemaker Ben Glaetzer. The Shiraz delivers that familiar, plush black and blue fruit, while the Cab brings structure and length with a definite spicy streak and easy tannins in a juicy, mouth-filling drop that deserves a serious steak (90 points, BCLS $19.99).
Tim Pawsey writes about wine for numerous publications and online as the Hired Belly at hiredbelly.com. Contact: [email protected].
