What makes a perfect barbecue wine?
Well, the right answer to that question is: it all depends on what you’re cooking. But, for whatever reason, we tend to associate red wines with barbecue, most likely because of an ingrained, make that almost Neanderthal, predisposition that has always linked “barbecue” with “steak,” as in beef steak.
The Argentines know a thing or two about barbecue (asado), which goes a long way to explain why Malbec is still on a roll. When it comes down to it, this very approachable (and very affordable) Argentine staple is a crowd pleaser.
Perhaps it’s fitting that one of the most impressive barbecues I’ve ever experienced, anywhere, was at historic Pascual Toso (founded in 1890), where the empanadas come right out of a traditional oven. And the grilled blood sausage (morcilla) is one of the best tastes you’ll ever experience with Malbec or Cabernet Sauvignon, for that matter.
Pascual Toso Estate Malbec 2014 (Mendoza)
This benchmark Argentinian sports bright red and blue fruit on the nose, followed by a juicy mulberry and damson entry with a wild fruit edge above earthy undertones, structured tannins and a good close. Great value at $13.50 (90 points).
Domaine Bousquet Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 (Mendoza)
All too often overshadowed by Malbec is Argentinian Cabernet Sauvignon. This wine would be a prime example, made from certified organic grapes grown at high altitude (1,200 metres) in the Andes foothills. Up-front plummy and peppery hints before a quite generous palate, underpinned by blackberry and cassis with good acidity and a mineral streak in the close. All this, and organic too ($15, 90 points).
Finca Las Moras Tannat Reserve 2014 (Mendoza)
For tremendous value and something completely different, here’s a very appealing take on Tannat. The grape has its origins in the Basque country Pyranees between modern-day France and Spain. Properly managed, it can thrive in rocky spoils and hot climates. Well named, it can sometimes be quite tannic but not in this instance. Up-front dark berry notes before a juicy palate of raspberry and blackcurrent wrapped in a smooth, mouth-filling palate with spicy savoury hints and a lengthy end. Think ribs! A deal at BCLS $13, but on special at $12 through Sept. 3 (91 points).
Graffigna Centenario Pinot Grigio Reserve 2015 (San Juan)
Here’s what you can sip while you’re cooking, or pair with a piece of chicken. Crisp and clean with zesty acidity, citrus and orchard fruits through to a refreshing, dry close. BCLS $14 (89 points).
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Heads up!
Coming up fast: Top Drop Vancouver, Sept. 7 and 8. This still-young festival is growing rapidly, as the focus continues on sustainably farmed, terroir-driven wines, alongside a small group of craft beers, ciders and more. A big draw (read: get your tickets now), the main event tasting ($69, at Yaletown’s Roundhouse, Sept 8, 7-9:30 p.m.) features everyone involved. For full info, participating wineries and the lowdown on other events to be announced shortly, such as dinners in Vancouver and Whistler, go to topdropvancouver.com. Proceeds benefit the B.C. Hospitality Foundation.
Tim Pawsey writes about wine for numerous publications and online as the Hired Belly at hiredbelly.com. Contact: [email protected].
