The dog days of summer call for chilled, crisp whites and a ready supply of wallet-friendly, barbecue-friendly reds.
In which case there’s no better place to turn than South Africa. When it comes down to choosing perennially affordable, quaffable whites and well-made, food-friendly reds, the Cape rarely disappoints.
Much of its appeal lies in an Old World-New World convergence.
South African winemakers enjoy a unique perspective that often blends contemporary, approachable styles with a traditional, often French-influenced approach to making more food-friendly wines. Not only that, but the styles and varieties grown are as wide ranging as anywhere in the world.
A recent tasting of Cape drops, featured at BCLS through Aug. 4, delivered a solid reminder of the value to be found, especially in budget wines such as most of these.
Painted Wolf, The Den Chenin Blanc 2014 (Swartland)
From Swartland, the emerging, hot and dry region north of Cape Town, reaching to the coast, with a wide range of complex soils. Delicate tropical and pear notes with bright acidity, good length and mineral notes. In an interesting twist, this wine helps support conservation efforts of its namesake African Wild Dogs ($10 - $12, pre-tax, 90 points).
Spier Chenin Blanc 2014 (Western Cape)
Arguably one of the best values at BCLS, this go-to patio wine also doubles as a food-friendly drop. Up-front apple, pear and citrus notes wrapped in decent acidity and mouth-filling, leesy viscosity, along with a definite edge of citrus zest. Think Waldorf salad or goat cheese. Classy packaging too that suggests more than $12.69 (91 points).
Flagstone Longitude 2012 Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec (Western Cape)
Easy drinking, plush and plummy, modern styled, 40/40/20 blend delivers ripe red berries and chocolate notes wrapped in a juicy, rounded palate with easy tannins and solid structure. (Regular: $12.19, limited time offer: $10.29, 89 points).
Roodeberg KWV 2013 (Western Cape)
Here’s a blast from the past that epitomizes South African value. The Roodeberg Bordeaux blend (43 per cent Cabernet Sauvignon, 30 per cent Shiraz, 12 per cent Merlot, six per cent Petit Verdot, three per cent Tannat, three per cent Tempranillo) adds up to a true cocktail. And they make about three million litres (which in pre-Yellow Tail days, used to be a lot of wine.)
But it’s a well-made, very food-friendly, dry red, with surprising personality in its refreshing acidity, balanced tannins and managed oak. That’s “dry red” as in a truly welcome departure from all the horrendously sweet commercial wines being churned out today. In fact, I just tasted a wine that checked in at a staggering 62 grams of sugar per litre. This one is just 5.7 grams per litre. But I digress. (BCLS $12.29, 89 points).
Glen Carlou Grand Classique 2011 (Paarl)
An excellent Bordeaux-style blend for just under $20, here’s another good example of Cape value: a blend of 42 per cent Cabernet Sauvignon, 24 per cent Petit Verdot, 12 per cent Merlot, and 11 per cent Malbec and Cabernet Franc yields a supple, full-bodied palate of red and dark fruits with cassis and spicy notes wrapped in elegant tannins. Buy one extra to tuck away and you’ll be well rewarded in a few years (BCLS $19.19, 91 points).
Tim Pawsey writes about wine for numerous publications and online as the Hired Belly at hiredbelly.com. Contact: [email protected].
