’Tis the season for bubble, bubble and more bubble.
The good news about sparkling wine and Champagne is that an abundance of choice makes it easy with something for everyone’s taste and budget.
This month, (arguably the best “entry-level” Cava in the market) Segura Viudas is on special. Grab a bottle of this citrus and tropical-toned sparkler as the perfect match for smoked salmon or party bites, and (why not?) another for midnight (BCLS $13, on special until Jan 2, 89 points).
However, while good Cava indeed rocks, surely (even if you don’t drink a lot of French “big C” Champagne) the one time you should is at midnight on New Year’s Eve.
But, more to the point, don’t wait until midnight. The two most overlooked facts about Champagne are: first, it’s a fantastic and very versatile food wine; and, second, vintage Champagne (when you consider all the work that went into its making, and the age of the wine in bottle) can actually add up to quite a bargain.
The other night found me at legendary Sun Sui Wah, where a few of us were test driving a few glasses of luxury Champagnes matched with an equally impressive array of plates.
As it happens, Moet & Chandon Brut Impérial (with its toasty, bready notes and apple citrus hints wrapped in decent acidity) adds up to a great example of just how well Champagne can work with myriad flavours. And if you’re partial to jellyfish or dried scallop and enoki (as I am), it’s a slam dunk. Or you could force it down with lobster, too (BCLS $61, 90 points).
Moving into headier territory, we were soon exploring some truly serious vintages, all in definite splurge territory but all high scorers and worthy in the name of quality and celebration.
Dom Perignon Blanc 2005 Champagne rewards with persistent bubbles, citrus and brioche, and a very elegant, creamy but substantial structure, plus honey and zesty notes over definite chalky, mineral undertones. It’s the kind of wine that just keeps changing in the glass, if you can make it last that long, and you probably should at around $200 a pop.
But here’s the clincher: It is suggested that you don’t serve it in a flute. It’s better to pour it into a white wine or a Burgundy glass. A great match with roasted squab (BCLS $200; 93 points).
Another highlight, another splurge, Dom Perignon Rosé 2003 Champagne (Pinot Noir and Chardonnay), is aged on lees for 10 years before its release. From one of the hottest vintages in many decades, while fleshy, this strawberry-raspberry-toned drop is elegant, and very Pinot-driven, with earthy undertones that work perfectly with shredded duck (BCLS $270, 94 points).
Meanwhile, back on Earth, Sumac Ridge has released another Steller’s Jay Sparkling Shiraz, which makes for a fun addition to any holiday party.
This style of wine is a favourite of Down Under drinkers who will often enjoy it as an aperitif. This is a pretty full-bodied example, with layers of black cherry and chocolate that cry out for strong cheese, roast duck, or, yes, even dark chocolate mousse. Pretty in the glass, and a definite crowd pleaser (BCLS $26, 90 points).
Also, before we leap into a pool of Prosecco at the upcoming International Wine Festival, let’s remember 2015’s festival was all about Australia. And one of the fave wines turned out to be this bubble: Jansz Premium Cuvée (Tasmania).
This classic Chardonnay and Pinot Noir blend sparkler sports a persistent stream of bubbles with pear, citrus and a very Champagne-like bready note, all for just $28, 91 points.
Happy new year!
Tim Pawsey writes about wine for numerous publications and online as the Hired Belly at hiredbelly.com. Contact: [email protected].
