A friend of mine sent me a copy of a column I wrote more than 20 years ago, in 1994, about (at the time) relatively recently arrived Mission Hill head winemaker John Simes.
“Kiwi Simes says there’s no reason why B.C. shouldn’t be able to emulate New Zealand’s meteoric rise as an international renowned producer of quality wines,” I wrote. “Although, he adds, a lot depends on what the B.C. government does or doesn’t do following its current review of the industry.”
Simes discusses similarities between New Zealand and the Okanagan. And while he mentions that cold winters could continue to be a problem, overall, he adds, “I’m extremely bullish about what could happen here.”
More prescient, however, is what he says next.
“A more unique B.C. problem relates to questions of economy and the risk of doing business in a government-regulated market than from questions of technical know-how.”
The year just ended saw some progress in the overall liberalization of retail sales and liquor regulation, edging B.C. toward most free market systems. However, there are plenty of people who are not happy with the government’s continued manipulation of both retail and wholesale markets, including its failure to create a truly level playing field with discount levels to allow private stores to fairly compete with government stores.
Also, the government’s refusal to establish a realistic wholesale price for restaurants continues to penalize both restaurateurs and diners alike. Restaurateurs are paying the highest price for a bottle of wine on the continent and consumers are further penalized by the progressive mark-up and liquor tax. For an economy driven increasingly by tourism, it’s a ridiculous state of affairs that makes visitors shake their heads.
Of course, given that an election is on the immediate horizon, there’s a good chance we’ll see some restaurant discount offered. The question is whether it will be a realistic solution or merely political window dressing.
Also looming very large is the challenge being mounted by California and other major wine-producing regions regarding licenses permitting the sale exclusively of B.C. wine on select grocery store shelves.
California has stated firmly that it believes the grocery store license should be cancelled or modified to allow for the sale of imported wines in order for B.C. to fulfil its obligations under NAFTA, GATT and the EU-Canada Agreement on wine sales.
With a new U.S. administration looking to make points at home, the B.C. government shouldn’t underestimate just how much of a liability the grocery store license could prove to be. The year 2017 promises to be an interesting one.
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This week’s picks
Three truly wallet-friendly wines to help with those post-holiday budget blues:
Mission Hill 5 Vineyards Chardonnay 2014: The 5 Vineyards wines enjoy a good rep for value in B.C. wine and this Chard from Oliver, Osoyoos and Naramata vineyards is no exception. Look for orchard fruits on the nose with apple and pear flavours plus a touch of minerality on a fresh, bright palate, underpinned by good acidity (BCLS $15, 90 points).
Pascual Toso Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 Estate Bottled (Mendoza): Pour this medium- to full-bodied Argentine Cab into a big glass and you’ll be surprised at what you get for the price. Plum and vanilla notes on the nose precede a full-fruited palate of blackberry and anise wrapped in approachable tannins and moderate oak with a lingering finish ($14, 89 points).
Vina Leyda Syrah Reserva 2014 (Leyda Valley, Chile): From one of Chile’s up-and-coming regions: Lifted crushed blackberry and meaty notes on the nose with a well-balanced palate of fruit and oak with surprising elegance and good varietal character. Think braised meats or barbecue. Excellent value at BCLS $14 (90 points).
Tim Pawsey writes about wine for numerous publications and online as the Hired Belly at hiredbelly.com. Contact: [email protected].
