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NOTABLE POTABLES: Chile ups the ante

Last week, a tasting presented by Chilean wineries attending TED Talks turned out to be a potent reminder of just how much value Chile delivers at almost every price point.
wine

Last week, a tasting presented by Chilean wineries attending TED Talks turned out to be a potent reminder of just how much value Chile delivers at almost every price point.

But it also offered a heads-up as to just how the country continues to develop a diversity of styles, revealing a number of wines from new and relatively unproven regions.

The idea behind Chile’s participation in TED Talks was to emphasize its effective and progressive sustainability programs, which are starting to take hold in a big way. Yet one more reason to track down some of these drops.

Topping my list, and sure to be a hot seller when it gets here, is an organic bubble from sustainability trendsetter Emiliana. 

Emiliana Organic Brut NV

With its yeasty notes, citrus and mineral tones, and leesy mouthfeel, this blend of 60/40 Chardonnay and Pinot Noir embodies what Chile is so good at and it’s Charmat method will no doubt allow it to be competitively priced at around $20 (91 points).

Chile is pushing its wine growing boundaries north to Elqui Valley but also well to the south. Witness Casa Silva, which is growing Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc, some 900 kilometres south of Santiago on the shores of Lake Ranco vineyards in Patagonia. We didn’t get to taste the sparkler that will be produced with the first two varieties, but if the Sauvignon Blanc is anything to go by, it should also be worth waiting for.

Casa Silva Lago Ranco 2014 Sauvignon Blanc (Austral) sports lifted citrus and orchard notes, followed by a mouth-filling palate with intense mineral notes and keen acidity that lingers in the finish (91 points).

Already on local shelves, several names continue to underscore the value Chile offers.

Carmen Apalta Gran Reserva Carmenere 2013 (Alto Maipo)

There was a time when it was a real challenge to sell Carmenere, for many years often mistakenly grown as Merlot. Up-front red berry notes followed by a focused fruit in a plush and plummy, mulberry-toned palate with toasty notes, easy tannins and a lengthy end ($19.99, 91 points).

Errazuriz Max Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 (Aconcagua)

Up-front black fruits followed by a layered palate of cassis, spice and toasty notes with balanced oak and a lingering end. One of the best value Cabernets on the market ($17.99, 90 points).

Santa Carolina Pinot Noir 2013 (Leyda Valley)

A long-established winery and brand (since 1875), which has transformed itself over the last few years, is another winery pushing boundaries. This well-made, very affordable Pinot is planted just eight kilometres from the Pacific ocean, in a cooler, maritime-influenced setting. Forward, fruity, cherry notes, medium-bodied with earthy and spicy, savoury undertones, surprisingly complex for the money. Great value ($14, 90 points).

Ventisquero Vertice 2011 (Apalta)

This blend of Carmenere and Syrah offers another example of the progress Chile has made in the mid to premium range. Grown at higher elevations in Apalta and aged for 20 months in new and used French oak. Forward black fruit and spice followed by a generous but focused, juicy palate with good fruit and acid balance with excellent structure, some definite peppery and meaty notes, and a persistent close (92 points, $37.99).

Tim Pawsey writes about wine for numerous publications and online as the Hired Belly at hiredbelly.com. Contact: [email protected].