B.C.’s boundary-pushing wineries continue to surprise and impress.
Last week’s circle route to Kamloops and the Okanagan included a visit to Lillooet’s Fort Berens, which, according to co-owners Rolf de Bruin and Heleen Pannekoek, has become a fave day trip for Whistler wine lovers.
The winery’s smart, new, glass-wrapped tasting room yields sweeping views of the riverside vineyards, Lillooet, and its mountain backdrop, while The Ponderosa
Kitchen (in the hands of keen locavore chef Dylan Foss) is a big part of the appeal.
You can also catch Fort Berens at Whistler’s Cornucopia (Nov. 5-15, whistlercornucopia.com) where the winery’s strawberry, mineral and earthy-toned Pinot Noir 2013 (91 points) has been judged among Cornucopia’s Top 25 wines. Also of note, Cabernet Franc 2013 (91 points).
If you’ve not yet visited, the Duffy Lake Road from Pemberton to Lillooet makes for a stunningly scenic trip, and the perfect entrée to B.C.’s newest wine region and the Kamloops Wine Trail.
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The classic Thanksgiving turkey dinner has morphed somewhat since it was shared by the first Mayflower pilgrims. And while turkey will always be the mainstay of Canadian Thanksgiving, a contemporary B.C. feast can include any number of local ingredients.
A range of textures and flavours on the table provides the perfect excuse to pair not just one, but maybe two, three or more wines with the meal, and a chance to pour something for everyone.
A sparkling entrance
Nothing raises the tenor of a celebration like a glass of good bubble, especially Champagne. The classic toast aside, it’s also worth remembering that the classic blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir is one of the more flexible pairings you can pour to enjoy throughout the meal.
Baron Fuente Grand Millésime 2006
Vintage bubble can be pricy but this blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier and Pinot Noir is one of the best vintage deals going. Look for a mineral subtext with citrus and stonefruit, good mouthfeel and a clean close (BCLS $53, 91 points).
Seasonal squash
Acorn squash can be a vegetarian mainstay, especially when filled with nutty-tasting wild rice, dried fruit or chestnuts to salute the season. Serve with a stylin’ white such as:
Blue Mountain Pinot Blanc 2014
Pinot Blanc was once B.C.’s most widely planted white grape until it was usurped by Chardonnay. One sip of this shows what can be done in the right hands.
Apple and pear on the nose, with a beautifully integrated fresh fruit palate and deft use of French oak that delivers creaminess and structure in truly elegant harmony (92 points).
Thanksgiving tuna?
Some years ago I found myself turkey deprived and opted instead for albacore. What to pair with that pan-seared, oven-baked or even barbecued tuna loin? Opt for a medium-bodied Pinot Noir.
Joie Farm Pinot Noir 2013
This Summerland and Naramata-sourced Pinot balances silky tannins with cherry and earthy notes and just the right streak of acidity to work with the fish ($35, 91 points). Or, if you prefer to stick with tradition, you could even serve it with turkey.
Belly’s Budget Best
Domaine Gayda Grenache 2013
Easy-drinking Languedoc red invites with peppery and red-berried notes before a gently spicy and plush palate with a good close. Look for the Flying Free Spirit label. Value priced at BCLS, $12.99 through October; 89 points.
Tim Pawsey writes about wine for numerous publications and online as the Hired Belly at hiredbelly.com. Contact: [email protected].
