AT our house we have a tradition that revolves around pulling the garlic we planted last year.
The occasion usually occurs in the heat of late July or August, when the bulbs are ready but not yet cured. This year's ceremony took place last week, involved liberal amounts of raw garlic and tomato and, as usual, a bottle of dry Riesling.
As luck would have it, our Riesling supply is pretty healthy these days, thanks to the marketing gurus at Andrew Peller. They've decided to discount Peller Okanagan Private Reserve Dry Riesling 2011 (Similkameen, perhaps, but the label doesn't say)- currently at just $11 at BC Liquor Stores.
The far from shy, crisp, stone fruit, zesty grapefruit and mineral toned drop - which in previous vintages has scooped its share of awards (including a BC Lieutenant Governor's), was already a deal at $16 (90 pts.). But for $11? We're all over it. And so, perhaps, will you be, as long as stocks last.
That's the good news. The bad news? I wonder for how much longer we'll see this wine, and the Peller Okanagan label in general, which appears to have been eclipsed by the Wayne Gretzky brand, the rights to which Peller acquired a couple of years ago. (Kudos to them: the Wayne Gretzky Foundation receives a small share of each bottle sold.) Recently, under Howard Soon protege and winemaker Stephanie Leinemann, Peller Okanagan has had plenty to cheer about, raising the bar considerably.
Unfortunately, however, Peller Niagara has rarely given the Okanagan operation its due. Should we be concerned that Andrew Peller's name- who in planting Rocky Ridge Vineyard (Similkameen) way back in the 1960s displayed tremendous vision-could be shuffled aside in the name of hockey? Let's hope not.
(If you do head down to your local BCLS to grab a bottle or two, you might also want to consider the Family Reserve Syrah ($14.99) which also consistently delivers good value for money.) More proof that Similkameen Riesling is a comer can be found in Orofino Home Vineyard Riesling 2012, a complex wine which yields bright lemon lime and green apple, with appealing minerality, and good fruit and acid balance. Extra heft and texture results from some time in neutral oak. Track it down at the winery ($29/90 points) and at private stores.
While Riesling may never in this province compete with the mass appeal of Chardonnay, it's interesting to watch its ascendance, especially in B.C.'s newer regions. Case in point: Kamloops' Harper's Trail, which is beginning to hit its stride from its 2009 plantings. Riesling's versatility (in that you can shape it from bone dry to off-dry and sweeter styles, especially as icewine) makes it a natural choice. Also, its early ripening ability and tendency to quickly show the terroir further enhance its appeal.
Harper's Trail Silver Mane Riesling 2012 is a crowd pleasing, off-dry apple and stone fruit toned drop with a nice touch of acidity and some mineral hints that reflect the limestone makeup of the vineyard ($20/89 pts). Think Alsace inspired cheese and onion tart.
No time like the present to book for this year's Feast of Fields, which returns to the idyllic surroundings of Langley's Krause Berry Farms this year. In the 20 years since the first Feast was held to raise funds for FarmFolk CityFolk, the late summer celebration has spread to the Okanagan and the Island.
Aside from showcasing some of the region's best chefs and restaurants, this year's Metro Van Feast also offers plenty to pair in the glass, from wineries such as Gray Monk, Quinta Ferriera, The View Domaine de Chaberton and Vista d'Oro, Long Table and Pemberton distilleries, and a clutch of excellent ciders and beers, including Left Field Cider (near Logan Lake), Delta's newly hatched Four Winds Brewing, Driftwood, R&B and more.
Feast of Fields details and tickets are available at farmfolkcityfolk.ca.
Tim Pawsey covers food and wine for numerous publications and online as the Hired Belly at hiredbelly.com. Contact: rebelmouse.com/hiredbelly, on Twitter @hiredbelly or email [email protected].
