Over the years, I have learned to treat certain spirits (from single malt whisky to absinthe and more) with a degree of respect.
It was only a matter of time before mezcal was added to the list, a fact reconfirmed at last week’s Vancouver International Tequila Expo.
Evidence of the surge in interest in tequila in general and in mezcal specifically was confirmed by the near sell-out crowd who attended, and who were, as far I could tell, from just about every walk of life.
The tequila sip-in has been a success since day one. But I suspect it was this year’s focus on mezcal that helped propel things to the next level. At the heart of the tasting room, a dedicated island of producers was tantamount to a mezcal lover’s paradise, with a score of offerings on hand.
This year’s cocktail competition also highlighted mezcal, with 12 of Vancouver’s top bartenders offering their take on this sometimes challenging elixir, which handled with the respect it deserves (beyond just sipping it neat) can materialize into some pretty impressive concoctions.
Cocktail competitions run the full gamut, from persnickety scored international contests (where you’d better be wearing not just a jacket, but the right jacket) to more laid-back shake-downs, where a little attitude and in-your-face originality can pay dividends.
Vancouver’s Tequila Expo falls very much into the latter category, with a wide-ranging parade of characters and concoctions on display.
Buoyed by unmistakable camaraderie and good-natured bantering between competitors, there’s almost a circus atmosphere that belies the serious business at hand: a cut-throat, winner-takes-all contest to see who’ll head off on an all-expenses paid tour of Oaxaca, from where most mezcal comes.
The spirit used for this contest was the eminently sippable, smooth and smoky (and, as it turned out, very cocktail friendly) Peloton de la Muerte Mezcal Joven, made from 100 per cent Agave Espadin for Mezcales de Leyenda. (It’s worth tracking down as an intro, for a relatively affordable $49.95, before you “graduate” to the other Leyenda Mezcales.)
Too bad there’s neither time nor space to mention them all here, but suffice it to say there was no shortage of talent.
Whether you find yourself in Bambudda, The Shameful Tikki Room, Pidgin or at The Blackbird, you’ll have no problem tracking down a respectable mezcal-based offering.
Popping out from the crowd (and off for the trip of a lifetime) was Kevin Brownlee from West Restaurant. His thoughtfully hatched “La Malinche” (named after the prominent 16th Nahua/Aztec intermediary) combined elements (such as strawberry, black pepper liqueur, lime, jalepeno, and cacao-infused reposado Tequila) that performed an impressive dance of heat and sweet.
Vancouver Rowing Club’s Jason Laidlow grabbed second place with his “Paloma Picasso,” which married bright flavours of red grapefruit juice with the richness and depth of 30-year-old sherry, underpinned by the mezcal (complete with edible silver foil garnish, a nod to Mexico’s long history of silver mining).
Amber Bruce (Cuchillo) completed the close-finishing top three with her La Sombremesa, for which she developed her own Cafe de Olla cold brew, in an intriguing molé and mildly chili-tweaked sipper.
Belly’s Best
Intrigue Pinot Gris 2013: Sports a pretty salmon note with aromas of pear and citrus before a textured but elegant palate of focused lime and firm berry notes wrapped in smart acidity. One of the best B.C. Gris this year ($16.90, 91 points), available online or from the winery.
Tim Pawsey writes about wine for numerous publications and online as the Hired Belly at hiredbelly.com. Contact: [email protected].
