You would think, after a year of remarkable meals on the North Shore, that I would feel sated, ready to ease gently into 2015 with a reserved appetite.
Instead, inspired by 2014’s experiences, I find myself still voraciously hungry and searching, hunting even, for the next great meal.
My palate has been thoroughly tested this year, assaulted by the wonderfully fierce chili fire of gochujang (I’m talking to you, Spicy House), contorted by the tart combination of lime and spirulina (I have in mind here The Juicery’s Greens Four creation) and soothed by the caramelized richness of four-year-old gouda (thanks, Cheese Man).
It has been an adventure and I’d like to thank you, readers, for your support, your comments, and your invaluable suggestions about where I ought to eat next.
On the topic of reader comments, I think it is worth noting that the most common plea I have received from North Shore diners in 2014 has been to encourage restaurants to forfeit the use of Styrofoam containers for take-out orders and leftover meals.
The environmentally taxing material is a source of genuine consternation for many people and it has been suggested to me by several diners that they will no longer visit restaurants that use Styrofoam. Food for thought.
And now, from a long list of truly exceptional meals, here are my highlights of the year:
The Little District. Restaurateur Paul Mon-Kau set the bar high right out of the gates in the new year with his new, diminutive room in Central Lonsdale.
The long and narrow space, with its stylish ambient lighting, bluesy soundtrack and lovely summertime backyard patio, is home to solid, Southern-influenced comfort fare including a delicious appetizer of cod fritters and a dramatic Fourteen Buck Chuck burger, presented on a wooden board and impaled with a menacing knife. (1336 Lonsdale Ave. thelittledistrict.com)
In the spring, I tackled the long and winding road out towards West Vancouver’s Eagle Harbour to check out Hugo’s, a wonderfully warm and spacious room with a fantastic patio. I encountered one of the year’s best squid dishes there (high praise from a lover of the cephalopod), a riff on a traditional Thai recipe with a potent black pepper and garlic sauce. (5775 Marine Dr., West Vancouver. eagleharbour.ca)
Stepping into DIY dining territory, I was impressed by the high calibre of ingredients and novel concept of Well Fed, a studio in which patrons assemble oven-ready meals to take home based on pre-prepped ingredients and thoughtfully considered recipes developed by owner Ann Marie Rideout.
Rideout has a passion for culinary travel and has brought back to North Vancouver a number of her favourite dishes from abroad to add to her extensive, monthly-rotating menus, with meals suitable for families, couples and time-pressed individuals who appreciate a home-cooked meal. (260 East First St. wellfedstudio.com)
At the outset of summer I ventured into Jagerhof, a three-decades-old institution on the North Shore that found new ownership in April. The focus is still on German, Austrian, and Swiss favourites, but with a welcome update by chef Felix Roesner.
The platter of house specialties, including bratwurst, schnitzel, roasted potatoes and sublime sautéed purple cabbage was an outstanding value. The restaurant’s housemade spaetzle is also a treat. (71 Lonsdale Ave. 604-980-4316)
The much-anticipated, highly publicized opening of Glowbal Group’s Trattoria Italian Kitchen at Park Royal South was a June highlight.
The second floor al fresco dining option supplies a surprisingly secluded oasis in the midst of the busy concrete shopping jungle.
The restaurant boasts a fantastic assortment of well-priced pasta (including a gorgeous spaghetti with truffled cream and meatballs), an accessible, food-friendly wine list, and a refreshingly considered kids menu. Remarkably, despite a no-reservations policy and consistently large crowds of diners, I have never had to wait more than 10 minutes for a table. (757 Main St. Park Royal South. glowbalgroup.com/trattoria)
I am loathe to name a definitive favourite meal of the year as each restaurant offered its own unique charms.
If pressed, however, I’d be inclined to give the top spot to Arm’s Reach Bistro for its check-all-the-boxes full package of great ambience, pretty location, informed, creative and adeptly executed menu, engaging, professional service and wine list packed with unusual finds.
Their $39 prix fixe menu is a great way to sample a few dishes from the kitchen and saves you the onerous task of deciding what to order. (4390 Gallant Ave. in Deep Cove. armsreachbistro.com)
Lynn Valley new addition Butter Lane offered up a tasty high tea service without the pomp and circumstance so often associated with that meal.
The charming and approachable mother and daughter baking team presents fresh daily creations and an expansive tea list. The à la carte waffles for the kids were an unqualified hit. (3022 Mountain Highway. facebook.com/butterlanebakeshop)
An aimless stroll on Lower Lonsdale Avenue led me to discover hidden gem La Tasca Lounge, run by the affable and impressively experienced chef Giorgio Prego, whose simple, bright and fresh marinara sauce with lamb meatballs made for an outstanding lunch. (144 Lonsdale Ave. 604-349-1941)
The precisely executed, skillfully plated and outstandingly fresh sushi and Japanese fare of chef Takuya Iwaki at Yohachi Sushi was a late-year treat.
A constantly changing selection of straight-from-the-sea seafood is masterfully presented here. My November visit included a delectable sampling of the unjustly maligned uni, or sea urchin roe, a Pacific Northwest treasure, by my estimation. (171 West Esplanade Ave. yohachi.ca)
Take note 2015, the standard has been set.
Chris Dagenais served as a restaurant manager downtown and on the North Shore. A self-described wine fanatic, he earned his sommelier diploma in 2001. Contact: [email protected].
