The neon “open” sign in the window of the Corner Café casts an ethereal light into the rainy November morning as I sip coffee from an oversized mug.
Aside from two people that I deduce are the café’s owners, I am the only person in the joint. My back is turned slightly towards the window and I imagine that from outside the scene must look a bit like an Edward Hopper painting, familiar but oddly lonely and impersonal.
At just minutes past 6 a.m. it is unreasonably early for a meal, but I am on a mission to unearth the breakfast subculture of North Vancouver. We all know about brunch, that lazy meal that often features luxury ingredients and can command pretty steep prices. But what about the more functional, early morning food experience, the alleged most important meal of the day? Outside of travel, how often do you head out for breakfast? Would you even know where to go?
My bleary brain considers these and other burning questions as a friendly and alert voice asks if I’ve made up my mind about what to order. I notice the morning’s special on a chalkboard: two eggs, three portions of meat (bacon, sausage, and ham), toast and hashbrowns for $5.99. I consider the price and wonder if I have nodded off for a moment and my sleeping mind has invented it. Alas, the breakfast special is real and arrives within five minutes of ordering it, delivering exactly what was advertised: proficiently cooked, over-easy eggs, buttered toast, griddle-cooked meats and coarsely chopped, lightly seasoned potatoes.
The rest of the breakfast menu is similarly classic in nature, with omelets, French toast, and various egg and meat combinations. As I eat my meal, a slow procession of other patrons begins to arrive.
Some people are even greeted by name, suggesting that this early morning business might be a regular affair.
While the Corner Café may not be pushing the boundaries of innovation with its menu, it does present the sort of unfussy, efficiently prepared fare that I suspect resonates with early morning diners. The Corner Café is located at 1490 Pemberton Ave.
The next morning, I convinced my seven-year-old son to join me for another breakfast outing, this time to the Kenaize Café, located at 1490 Main St., at the foot of Mountain Highway.
I had never even heard of this warmly appointed little room prior to my search for out-of-the-way cafés, but as it turns out, the business has been in operation for 17 years catering to a loyal clientele sourced largely from local businesses. Kenaize’s menu is extensive, but is principally focused on lunch items, with a heavy emphasis on house-made sandwiches and baked goods.
The café features a wall of coffee beans available for take-out purchase. I ordered a large cup of strong dark roast while the very friendly and accommodating staff prepared our breakfast. The Boy had a breakfast sandwich with bacon and eggs on a massive, fresh bagel, a substantial and satisfying meal, well-priced at just $4.25.
My breakfast was, once again, the daily special, and consisted of two eggs, choice of bacon or sausages, hashbrowns, toast and coffee for $5.99. Like the previous morning’s meal, this is straightforward but well-prepared breakfast that will easily satisfy an early morning appetite.
Kenaize’s esthetic is inviting, with its earth tone décor and snaking green vines strung from the ceiling. I am keen to return to try Kenaize’s lunch menu, which includes a grilled cheese sandwich for $2.25 and meat lasagna for $6.50.
For the final morning’s breakfast adventure, accompanied by my wife DJ, I headed to Lonsdale Quay to try out the All Day Café, a modest, stand-alone food stall at the far southeast corner of the market.
Although it was still pretty early in the morning on a Saturday, All Day was doing a brisk business. In the absence of a grill, the café features an ingenious specialty of steamed eggs that are prepared using one side of their espresso machine.
The eggs, which end up dense and springy, are served in a variety of ways, including as a very tasty Benedict with your choice of smoked salmon, ham, or tomato and avocado.
I chose the latter and asked to substitute the standard croissant foundation for a toasted bagel.
The resulting Bennie, with its citrusy homemade Hollandaise sauce, was uniquely delicious, especially with a dollop of Sriracha from the condiment station.
DJ opted for an item called The Basic, which included a giant order of three steamed eggs and exceptionally tasty, thick-cut sourdough toast. With the addition of ham and cheese, The Basic is transformed into The Works.
I noticed that toast with jam was available as a stand-alone item for just $2.43; I will surely return for an order of sourdough with marmalade and coffee, and will watch the early bustle of tugboats in the harbour outside. Our meal, which also included a spicy chai latte and a large Americano, was $23.
Chris Dagenais served as a manager for several restaurants downtown and on the North Shore. A self-described wine fanatic, he earned his sommelier diploma in 2001. Contact: [email protected].
