TIME spent at the Main Event of Victoria's Taste festival of food and wine always yields some worthy finds and surprises - even more gratifying this year, considering the challenges of the last two Island vintages
While fewer local wineries participated this year their numbers were bolstered by a contingent of worthy Okanagan producers, which we think offers a useful forum for both tasters and producers.
The best way to taste Vancouver Island and Gulf Island wines, really, is to just go there.
Due to limited production, most wines remain hard to find on the mainland, although a few do show up in private stores.
However, here are a few highlights worth tracking down.
Averill Creek remains among a handful of leaders. And it's easy to see why when you taste their medium bodied, plush cherry toned 2009, silky tannin Pinot Noir, $26, which can hold its own with any Pinot from B.C. or beyond. Also worth a taste (only at the winery) is a gently buttery barrel of fermented '09 Pinot Gris ('Think crab,' they say, and we agree). Averill Creek's philosophy of engaging with other wine producing regions (particularly in New Zealand and Oregon) continues to help raise the level of their game.
Sparkling wines can be costly and time consuming to make but, given the ripening challenges, there's no question that more island bubble in the long run just makes sense. It can be only a matter of time before we see a dedicated sparkling winery. (Church & State in Saanich would make sense.)
Grab a bottle of Starling Lane's hard to find, creamy, brioche topped Celebration Brut ($28) if you can, or put in your order for the next release, likely pre-holidays.
The fresh and fruity, off-dry Star blend ($19) is a great match with spicy plates, such as Butchart Gardens' Sechelt sturgeon with piquant salsify kimchee and carrot purée, one of the show's culinary hits. (Also of note, the well structured, citrus and gently tropical toned Ortega 2011, $19). Saltspring Vineyard's méthode Champenoise style Karma 2008 ($29.90), a small-run but now regular item, is yet one more notch in the sparkling belt.
Necessity truly is the mother of invention. When starlings decimated a large portion of Rocky Creek's supply of 2010 Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir, owners Linda and Mark Holford opted to make Jubilee-what turned out to be a pretty delicious strawberry toned, gently yeasty sparkling wine.
Plus, a nod to their layered, quite textured, citrus toned Pinot Gris 2011.
This is also a winery not afraid to push the envelope. They're the only Canadian winery (as far as we know) to use the handy-especially if you're looking to re-close a sparkling white- and environmentally friendly Zork closure. And they make the island's sole Tempranillo, a tribute to grower José Rodrigo.
Not only does the limited edition ($50 / 500 ml) wine help raise funds for Canadian Cancer Society but it also points to a future (in right hands) for this variety in the region.
In the skilled hands of Travel with Taste culinary tour operator Kathy McAree (and a core group of savvy volunteers) Taste has emerged as the Island's principal food and wine event, which should continue to grow.
We're beginning to wonder what next week's wine news will be from Victoria. Hot on the heels of the decision to allow B.C. residents to bring in unlimited quantities of grown in Canada wine comes news that BYOB for BC is a reality.
Well, make that BYOW, as in "Wine," says the government. No surprise, already, craft brew lovers are saying "How about us?" And take note that the program is optional - available only at "participating" restaurants.
As for how much you'll pay? Probably between $20 and $30 in a half-decent resto.
Sure, there are some quibbles. But it is another step in the right direction towards a more normal form of liquor control.
Oh, and as for next week's announcement? Rumours are rife that Victoria will drop the much hated and outdated tied-house rule.
Belly's Budget Best
Haywire Crush Pad Rosé. Chalk up one more hit for Okanagan Crush Pad for this distinctly rhubarb toned, juicy and dry finished Gamay rosé, that can sit in your fridge until all three litres are gone, which won't be long! $52.
That's $12.50 a bottle equivalent, a super deal! It's also VQA but they can't say it. Yet.
