WE'VE come to expect flying winemakers to have a busy schedule.
When we caught up with Paul Hobbs a couple of weeks back, we weren't surprised to find out he was between Russian River, his winery in Mendoza, and a recent joint project with Georges Vigouroux in Cahors; not to mention running his import company and a not a few consulting contracts around the world.
It's easy to underestimate the value of such globetrotting, but the direct benefit of the winemaker's well travelled ways soon became apparent as he poured us his Hobbs Russian River 2009 Russian River Chardonnay.
We were struck by the fruit and acid balance, but also by the more restrained oak. Hobbs explained his technique to allow the minerality and fruit flavours to show through.
"We do something a little unique. I was looking for a shift in style and happened to be tasting in the Mosel, watching Riesling being made, using both oak and steel."
When Hobbs came back he pulled the Chardonnay out of barrel after 11 months and transferred it to stainless steel tanks for three months.
The result is a much more integrated oak profile that doesn't detract from the wine's lively pear and apple notes and firm mineral streak; BCLS Specialty $56.99.
"In general I think California winemakers are using oak in a more finessed way," he says. "Oak is a funny thing. If you really do know how to work with it, it can also masquerade as fruit - if it's well integrated. The trick is to make it appear voluminous without being too sweet," he suggests.
We would also be remiss not to mention the still youthful 2010 Russian River Pinot Noir 2010 - dark berries, violets on top followed by a cherry-tone palate with some earthy notes, a touch of fleur de sel, and a pleasing savoury streak. Put it down for a while, he suggests; BCLS Specialty $59.99.
Hobbs' Mendoza winery, Viña Cobos, is known for its equally well made walletfriendly drops. Viña Cobos Felino Cab Sauv 2010 delivers dark fruit with cassis and blackberry notes and firm tannin that make it a worthy barbecue contender; BCLS $19.99.
To wrap, the Bramare Lujan de Cuyo Malbec 2009, a plush, velvet textured wine that takes Malbec to new levels, with heady notes of blackberry and cherry on top followed by anise and mocha notes with a long supple close; BCLS $44.99.
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Despite what for some was a challenging vintage, there's no shortage of excellent Okanagan (and other) 2011 whites being released. Here are a few contenders:
- Baillie Grohman 2011 Pinot Gris. Definitely a step up from last year, with some pear notes on top followed by a zesty citrus palate wrapped in good acidity. A promise of more good things to come from this new region; BCLS $21.99.
- Tinhorn Creek Two Bench White 2011. This blend of mainly Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, with Viognier, and a dab of Semillon and Muscat just gets better every year. Look for tropical, lychee, floral and a sage hint on the nose followed by a lively palate of juicy citrus and tropical flavours. A little more offdry than in vintages past, says Sandra Oldfield; BCLS $22.99.
- Sandhill Hidden Terrace Pinot Gris 2011. First release from Sandhill's impressive project with Covert Farms, tucked away above and just north of Oliver. A leaner, more mineral and zesty toned style, wrapped in keen acidity that makes it very food friendly. Think oysters or spot prawns; BCLS $18.99.
- CedarCreek 2011 Riesling. No surprise that Winemaker Darryl Brooker brings some Niagara knowhow to Riesling. This one's wicked, packed with lemon lime and lingering citrus throughout the mid-palate with vibrant, juicy acidity. The deal at BCLS, $17.90.
Much more to come on the 2011 BC vintage.
