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Get into garden and enjoy

NOW that the garden is in full growth, it's time for the June primer on what to do and what not do in the garden this month.

NOW that the garden is in full growth, it's time for the June primer on what to do and what not do in the garden this month.

I used to dislike offering monthly to-do lists for the garden but it seems readers like knowing some tips for getting things done as well as what not to do in the garden according to the season, so here's a brief list for June.

The following gardening tasks should not be done in June:

Do not transplant any tree, shrub or perennial. June is the worst time to move plants because of all the new leaves that are still soft, emerging and requiring a constant water supply to fulfill their growth.

This does not apply to potted plants since there is no water loss from potted plants, unlike transplants which have much of their root system cut off.

It is possible in some instances to accomplish a June transplant with specialist knowledge, pre-transplant watering, large-size root ball retention during transplant, post-planting establishment care and the use of antidesiccants that coat the foliage to prevent water vapor loss.

But I recommend the services of professional to avoid a slow defoliating death of the transplant.

Do not fertilize just because some marketing propaganda says it's time to do so.

Plants grown in the soil of earth in residential gardens do not require the addition of soft-growth-inducing chemical fertilizers. If your plants have a uniform green leaf, average to good growth and no problems then do not fertilize them.

Chemical fertilizers are known to force soft leaf growth, which is predisposed to pest and disease attack and drought fatigue. If you have an underperforming plant in the garden, plants in pots, baskets or raised planters, then perhaps a half-strength feed is warranted. But more fertilizer is not better.

Gardening tasks to be done in June:

Check soil moisture levels, to determine which areas did not receive enough rainfall over the winter to replenish deep soil moisture reserves. The first place to check is under plants with dense foliage, under large trees, near the house or under any overhanging structure. It's important to prepare such locations for the coming summer drought by watering deeply now to beef up their water reserves. If you're using soaker hoses, remember that soaker hoses must be spaced no father apart than 45 centimetres (18 inches) to adequately soak the distance between the hoses. And the soakers must run for at least eight to 10 hours, depending on soil type and plant composition, to adequately assure a good deep watering.

Prune fruit trees once the flowers have emerged. The purpose of summer pruning fruit trees is to suppress some vigour to control size, build future flower structure and to eliminate dead and diseased stems. Summer pruning removes leaf surface area which limits the amount of growth the tree can make and the amount of sap reserve that can be taken into the roots in fall so it's important to not prune too hard during the summer, otherwise you may stunt the tree. As a general rule do not remove more than 25 per cent of the tree's total leaf surface area and retain as many flowering branches as possible.

Plant out any plant you want to grow. A June planting provides ample time for new trees, shrubs and perennials to establish before winter sets in and provides the added benefit of seeing exactly which holes in beds need to be filled. Be sure to choose wisely when selecting new plants - always choose the right plant for the right place, not the right plant for your desire, which may not be the right plant for the place.

Mulch all exposed soil in garden beds. I know I drone on about mulch but the people who have converted from bare soil to mulched soil have thanked me for saving them countless hours of mindless weeding and the stress of looking at a weed-ridden garden. Mulch conserves moisture, prevents erosion, prevents most weed growth and most importantly mulch provides a matrix for soil life to grow in and a byproduct of soil life activities is nutrient release for plants. Not to mention that a mulched garden looks so much better and healthy versus the stressed and degraded look of unmulched gardens.

The most important task for the June garden is to slow down and take time to enjoy the sublime beauty, tranquility and sanctuary of the garden.

We have to endure long grey winters, abundant rainfall and a few fleeting days of sun during most of the year on the West Coast, so when the sun shines in June and temperatures warm up, take advantage by relaxing in the garden sanctuary you have worked so hard to build.

Todd Major is a journeyman horticulturist, garden designer, writer, consultant and organic advocate. For advice contact him at stmajor@ shaw.ca.