The wine world always makes for an exciting place.
It's perpetually in flux no matter where you look. Barely a decade ago, you might have been excused for thinking that Australia was all about two things: Yellow Tail and Shiraz. In fact, sometimes it seemed it was about only Yellow Tail Shiraz. Period. However, after the Yellow Tail juggernaut rolled through, more than a few forward-thinking Aussies realized they had their work cut out for them in reshaping Australia's image away from being a monolithic producer of budget wines dominated by critter labels and a homogenous style of Shiraz.
The Australia being celebrated at this week's Vancouver International Wine Festival is a very different animal than the Australia of 10 years ago. There's a palpable excitement about the new direction. Call it a renewal if you want.
But more than that, the Aussies have brought with them some great examples of myriad varieties they're drinking at home. Not to mention a score of wines from newer regions, all but unheard of outside of the country a few years ago.
As this year's theme region, Australia not only raised the bar considerably (bringing more quality wines and a wealth of winemaking personalities) but also by dividing its significant show space in the tasting room into easy-to-grasp regions.
Finally, we were able to taste through the distinctive styles and varieties emerging or long recognized including, but not limited to, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from Yarra Valley; wonderfully age-able Semillon and Chardonnay from Hunter Valley; Riesling, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay (plus great bubbles) from Tasmania; mint and cassis-wrapped Cabernets from Coonawarra; elegant, plush Shiraz from Barossa; crisps, acid-driven Chardonnay or velvet, cassis-toned Cabs from Margaret River, and many more from a wealth of regions too numerous to mention here.
The point is that Australian wine has regained what many felt it had lost, a true sense of identity of place that's critical to wine, driven by that other vital, all too often overlooked factor of terroir: people.
The Aussies may have been down a few wickets of late in the wine game, but the team that showed up in Vancouver rallied with a string of hat-tricks and sixes to drive the message home. It was serious business, though not without more than a few laughs.
So many wines, too little time. I'll have plenty more to say, along with suggestions in coming weeks. But in the meantime, here's a few whites to watch for that very much, each in their own way, define the new Australia: Jansz Premium Cuvée (Tasmania) Not so long ago, wine lovers outside of Australia heard little about Tasmania because most of its production wound up in big brand blends, most notably sparklers. This classic Chardonnay and Pinot Noir blend sparkler (cheekily referred to as Méthode Tasmanoise) sports a persistent stream of bubbles with pear, citrus and a very Champagne-like bready note, all for just $29.99 (91 points). Fowles Ladies Who Shoot Their Lunch 2012 Chardonnay From Strathbogie Ranges in Central Victoria, this had mineral, stone fruit and a touch of melon, with some creaminess from well-integrated oak, lingering peach and acidity length (92 points, $36).
Berton "Metal Label" Vermentino 2013 One of an increasing number of Italian- originating varieties, this Vermentino sports bright, tropical notes on top, followed by a crisp and clean tropical palate with pear and citrus notes with a juicy close (90 points, $19.99). [email protected]
