Some of the most remarkable wine tastings are marked by their sense of place.
It’s a fact: you will always remember a special setting as much as the wines that were poured. While it may be home to some of the province’s oldest geology, the Similkameen Valley is still very much an emerging wine region. Hence it was a real treat to attend a recent library tasting of Orofino Wines, spanning the decade since John and Virginia Weber completed their unique, straw-bale winery.
Thankfully, as the mercury nudged 37 C, we were sitting in the shade of the trees, gazing across at the remarkable, rugged and furrowed northern slope that helps define this unique (in B.C. terms) east-west valley.
Orofino has emerged as one of the Similkameen leaders, and this tasting more than showed just why. I’m not going to rattle off a whole lot of wines you can’t buy although if you do have some older Orofino Riesling, in particular, tucked away (especially the ’07 and ’10, you’re in for a treat).
There’s a taughtness and persistent minerality in these wines that reconfirms the valley’s suitability to Riesling. And if you’re near Orofino you’ll want to pick up both the 2013 Hendsbee (90 points) and 2013 Home Vineyard (91 points).
The Pinot Noir and Gamay flights also offered strong showings. In current releases I’d be tracking down the well-structured 2012 Pinot (90-91 points) and the pretty, Beaujolais-inclined, light and gently peppery Celentano 2013 Gamay Noir (91 points). No question, Orofino is a must stop if you’re headed that way.
This month also saw the fifth annual Similkameen Barbecue King, the major wine event of the year. It’s held in the lush grounds of the historic Grist Mill & Gardens in Keremeos (oldgristmill.ca), which have blossomed under the leadership of Chris Matheson (former executive director of the Vancouver Police Museum).
Barbecue King is a laidback affair in which people wander between stalls, each one offering a local barbecue dish (this year from a whole Two Rivers Meats pig) prepared by an Okanagan or Similkameen chef, and paired with a wine from one of the wineries.
The nine entries were varied and superb, but at the end of the evening it was Local Lounge & Grille’s (Summerland) chef Lee Humphries who emerged as the double winner (media and people’s choice) for Best Wine and Food Pairing of the night.
Humphries’ cherry barbecue pulled pork tacos, with sorrel chimichurri, marinated shaved carrots, pickled zucchini, pork sausage, piggy puffs and cherry hot sauce was a slam dunk with Seven Stones spicy and earthy ’09 Pinot Noir. I attended the inaugural, 2010 Barbecue King. It’s gratifying to see how it’s blossomed, with well over 400 now in attendance.
George Hanson poured that winning Pinot Noir (91 points), which is just one of several made at his expanded Seven Stones Winery, where he has built an impressive barrel cellar, also ideal for special events.
Aside from the Pinot, other standouts from Seven Stones’ current releases include: a structured, mineral and citrus-toned, smartly oaked Chardonnay 2012 (90 points), and the cherry chocolate with mineral undertoned Row 128 Merlot 2011 (92 points).
The Grist Mill, grape and fruit wineries, Cawston, Keremeos and the valley at large make for leisurely, very scenic exploring, with a wealth of organic farms from which to buy. (Similkameen boasts the highest percentage of organic producers in Canada.)
If you’re inclined to stay and explore, comfortably appointed Tree to Me Farm Market (on Highway 3) offers five smart, air-conditioned suites, some with spectacular views, not to mention a wealth of temptations and baked treats from the store/café below (treetome.ca). For more info: similkameenwine.com.
Belly’s Budget Best
Calliope Figure 8 2013: A smart blend of Sauv. Blanc, Viognier, Pinot Gris and Riesling that offers floral, citrus and tropical notes followed by a complex, well-balanced and juicy palate wrapped in good acidity with a streak of minerality. A delicious sipper or very food flexible, even for spicier plates. Great value at $16.99, 90 points.
Tim Pawsey writes about wine for numerous publications and online as the Hired Belly at hiredbelly.com. Contact: [email protected].
