To wine geeks, the Import Vintners & Spirits Association (IVSA) tasting is like being a kid in the proverbial candy store.
The monthly spit-athon showcases the best of recent arrivals on these shores, as approved by the B.C. Liquor Distribution Branch. Aside from being a highly efficient way to catch up on all that's new, the selection can also deliver a hint of things to come.
What's changed in the past few years is that more products poured here are likely to show up on private wine store shelves, as the industry continues to mature and store owners seek out points of difference (both in price and style) to competing government stores.
The tasting also offers a good opportunity to discover some more esoteric items, which might range (as in this case) from a hard-to-find Lirac (southern Rhone), Albarino (Galicia) or Mencia.
The variation in styles and origins is matched only by the range of prices, which encompass all tiers but also yield fertile ground for those in search of value driven drops that frequently over-deliver. It also got me thinking about how set in our ways we can become, especially when it comes to wine. I'll never forget meeting a devout Pinot-phile who swore not only by Burgundy but also flat out refused to let any other wine cross his lips. How short-sighted. How sad, especially in the remarkable world of wine, which never ceases to surprise.
Here's a few picks (familiar and otherwise):Crios Torrontes 2012 A blend of northern and Mendoza fruit, tropical, peach and floral notes with good mouthfeel and reasonable acidity. Look for the "big hand" label (BCLS $15.99, 89 points).
Columna Albarino (Rias Baixas) 2011Quite complex Albarino, from Spain's northern tip on the Atlantic coast, where vines are grown on high concrete-supported trellises. Floral notes with juicy, rounded stonefruit and a streak of citrus; good texture with some mineral hints and a slight saline edge. (BCLS, $27.99). Think serious seafood like cracked crab or lobster, or seared scallops (90 points).Primitivo Puglia IGT Miopasso 2012It just might remind you of Zinfandel: forward cassis and black fruit, with a rounded spicy and plush palate before a lengthy finish (89 points, BCLS 18.95). Think charbroiled anything.Jean-Maurice Raffault 2012 Chinon RougeA relative red rarity from Loire, surprisingly approachable, with fruity but focused cherry and raspberry notes, easy tannins and good acidity (BCLS $19.99, 89 points). Paddy Borthwick Paper Road Pinot Noir 2010 (Wairarapa)Good value Pinot from one of all-too-often overshadowed Wairarap's leading producers. Cherry and plum notes on a medium-bodied, well-balanced palate with integrated tannins and some savoury notes (private stores $28-$30, 90 points).
Belly's Budget BestLas Moras Tannat (Lujan de Cuyo, Argentina) 2012New vintage of an old fave and perennial budget pick. Over-delivers for its plushness of ripe black fruit wrapped in easy tannins. Think pasta and tomato sauces. Still great value at BCLS $14.99 (89 points).
Coming up: House Wine presents Spain 101. Great tastes from virtually every region, from up and coming Bierzo, Rias Baixas and Toro to Ribera del Duero, Rioja and Priorat; Feb. 19, Legacy Liquor Store, Millennium Village, Tix $75. Check housewine.ca for more info.
Tim Pawsey covers food and wine for numerous publications and online as the Hired Belly at hiredbelly.com. Contact: [email protected].
