WHEN the snow and ice hit, it's traditional to turn to deeply flavoured stews, luscious braised meats and rib-sticking starches.
Or, you can leave town.
From the edge of the Pacific, the Baja town of Todos Santos unrolls to the east - first with sprawling hotels and elegant casitas that keep watch from hills over the ocean, then slowly gaining breadth as the dusty streets square up south of its historic orchards. Rich in history, the 18th-century mission town is now known as an artists' colony and tourist destination, full of charming galleries, shops, and yes, terrific food.
It's a quick and easy getaway for Lower Mainlanders looking for a brief respite from the cold and a turn to lighter fare, all flavoured with heat and citrus.
Like other places in Mexico, the best food is almost always found at tiny, family run stands and outdoor restaurants; eaten from plates covered in plastic while seated at a wobbly plastic patio sets. This town has many more options though, with garden restaurants, quirky cafés and upscale dining among them.
Lucky for us, our guide from Todos Santos Eco Adventures, Mauricio Duran, could not only wheel us around most of Southern Baja, but knew all the best spots for food - from a quick snack to an entertaining Mexican cooking class or a chic dinner out. Here are a few of my favourites. (Note that Todos Santos is small and street addresses are hard to come by. If you go, it's best just to ask for directions.)
Compa Chava. A craving for ceviche de pescado (fish ceviche) was handily met here with a massive platter of super-fresh, citrus-cooked white fish tumbled with garlic, tomatoes, onions and cilantro and scooped up with thick Mexican tortilla chips. Located across from the town's high school, Compa Chava is a favourite among locals.
El Pastorcito. The owners of this street side taco stand won't give away the secret to their luscious tacos al pastor (chilipepper-marinated pork), but they do use traditional pineapple in the recipe and lay out a colourful spread of salsas and garnishes. Find it on Degollado Street, Todos Santos.
Taqueria El Parguito. This tiny cart dishes up the quintessential Baja fish taco: fish bought straight from the day fishermen at the fishing village of Punta Lobos, submerged in secretrecipe batter and deep fried in bubbling oil, then tucked onto a soft tortilla for you to load up with salsa fresca, cabbage slaw, crema, guacamole, pickled onions, hot sauce and a squeeze of lime. It was nothing short of nirvana, at the corner of Santos Degollado and Del Huerto.
Café Brown. During one of his popular Mexican cooking classes owner Iker Algorri pointed out that the true secret to making delicious Mexican food is "to make it with love." Then he blended up some of his signature margaritas (he calls them"Browngaritas") and we sliced and diced our way to a dead-easy and super tasty dinner: dried guajillo peppers seeded and softened in boiling water with Roma tomatoes, onions and garlic, then blended with chicken stock, more onions, garlic and fistfuls of cilantro. The result is a sauce he calls Coloradita for pan-fried chicken, pork or fish. If you need sustenance of a different kind, Algorri is also an attorney, and he dishes up legal advice from a cluttered desk in the corner.
La Casita Tapas & Wine Bar. This one is easy to locate: it's at the intersection of the only stoplight in town. The room is lively and even on a Sunday night busy with locals and tourists alike. Worth it for the house-made sangria and charming hospitality. The array of local seafood is pretty good too.
Michael's at the Gallery. Coming from Vancouver, it seems strange to recommend an Asian-inspired restaurant in Mexico, but this place merits it. We stepped through open-air galleries and into a sculpture garden before finding our table among sparkling lights.
Szechwan scallops and yellowtail in black bean sauce were as good as any I've tried locally, and made a surprisingly nice pairing for the handful of Mexican bottles on the wine list. Located inside the GalerÃa de Todos Santos, Michael's is open Friday and Saturday nights only, reservations are required (612-145-050.
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No time to spare for a Mexican getaway? Forget about the hassle of customs and security line-ups, and the guy snoring in the coach seat behind you for two straight hours. Instead, find some of the same dishes at locations around the North Shore. Here are a few ideas to get you started.
- Fish tacos, The Crab Shop, 121 - 2455 Dollarton Hwy., North Vancouver; 6049291616.
- Lingcod fish tacos, Cactus Club, Various locations; www.cactusclubcafe.com.
- Prepared dishes and Mexican grocery, Cilantro & Jalapeno Gourmet Mexican Foods, Lonsdale Quay, 604-986-6344.
- Pork and beef tacos (skip the chicken) at Red Burrito, 1455 Lonsdale Ave., North Vancouver; 604-980-0980.
