NOT that we need more reasons to drink Riesling, but last week's visit by Ernie Loosen ("Dr. L.") provided more reminders as to why this really is the most versatile and glorious of grapes.
He had us wondering, yet again, why Riesling's rise to the major leagues of popular wine drinking continues to be so arduous.
Loosen is a veritable wealth of knowledge, both viticultural and anthropological. These days he's a winemaker with each foot planted firmly in the old and new worlds, collaborating to make Eroica with Chateau Ste. Michelle in Washington State; and now in partnership with Oregon Pinot Noir specialist J. Christopher.
We'd have a tough time not buying any of the wines the Doctor poured, starting out with the lead-off, deliciously dry 2010 Pinot Gris from Villa Wolf (Pfalz), with its green apple citrus and lime notes wrapped in subtle viscosity.
When Riesling does eventually become an everyday choice, it will be thanks in great part to the ubiquitous Dr. L, the entry level Riesling (labeled as such because Germany's strict rules do not allow the use of an estate name for a wine that uses purchased (i.e. not estategrown) grapes - something that we in B.C. haven't quite yet figured out. The mainstay Dr. L 2010 is a traditional, classic "Qualitatswein" Moselgrown, 100 per cent Riesling that usually tends towards more off-dry. But this vintage is in a noticeably drier style with generous green apple and mineral notes balanced by firm acidity that counters the natural sugars. The 2010 vintage was "a complete contradiction" that comes along only once in a while, says Loosen; BCLS $18.99.
Well worth the few extra dollars, lively and Dr. Loosen Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett 2009, from the Sundial vineyard's blue slate soils, rewards with a steely, mineral streak, lifted green apple, citrus and stone-fruit with a touch of clove spice; BCLS $25.99.
By contrast, Dr. Loosen Urziger Würzgarten Kabinett 2009 which comes from the Würzgarten (meaning spice garden) vineyard's steep, red slate volcanic soils, sports dominant tropical tones of peach and pineapple with spice notes in the finish. and a touch of clove in the end.; BCLS $25.99.
Serious Riesling won't want to miss the evolving Dr. Loosen Wehlener Sonnenuhr Spätlese '09, with its pronounced petrol notes (although he prefers the German term "firner", says Loosen, who relates it more to hot vintages and short hangtime), seductively viscous palate with clean ripe stonefruit and minerality; BCLS $35.99.
Maybe it was only a matter of time, but the remarkable success of Dr. L, not surprisingly, has spawned a Dr. L Sparkler. This just arrived in Canada, easy sipping bubble in classic Sekt style offers lively mousse, fresh apple notes and natural fresh fruit-forward style. A pretty smart package too; BCLS $18.99.
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Grab a last minute ticket for this Thursday's ChefmeetsGrape - the seventh annual extravaganza that is the year's largest tasting of B.C. VQA wines, with 75 wineries pouring some 250 fall releases, paired with plates from 12 Ocean Wise restaurants, 7-9 p.m., Sept. 22, Vancouver Convention Centre West. Ten per cent proceeds to Vancouver Aquarium's Ocean Wise program. $85 (plus HST & handling), through ticketstonight.ca or from 604684-2787.
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