Conventional wisdom says that with good wine goes (hopefully) good food.
But in recent years there's been no shortage of interest in cocktail and food pairings.
With the rise of the celebrity "mixologist," many a bartender who thought they knew food said, "Why not?" and gave it their best shot.
Sometimes it worked, and occasionally very well.
After all, a cocktail in the right hands actually offers a chance at a far more precise food pairing than the sommelier obliged to deal with the inflexibility of a given wine.
But just as often it didn't work, which might be just one of the reasons you don't see a whole lot of cocktail pairing on menus around.
Then there's the issue of just how much booze we really want to drink with meals. Needless to say, chances are a cocktail, especially if it's based on one of the classics, is going to pack a whole lot more punch than your typical glass of wine.
However, some key cocktail professionals have been busy changing that image, putting their passions into practice. Vancouver-based Lauren Mote is one such practitioner. She's the co-founder of the immensely successful Bittered Sling bitters and extracts, with her partner Jonathan Chovancek.
Recently Mote was commissioned by Four Seasons Vancouver Yew restaurant to design a series of cocktails that would complement and enhance Yew's innovative Ocean Wise activities. The idea was to explore some creative ways that cocktails could work with executive chef Ned Bell's unique, and entirely sustainable, Ocean Wise offerings.
Each of Mote's cocktails fits one of four categories, with salutes to oceans around the world, from bright aperitifs to full-bodied seafood and heavier proteins, to "regional expression."
The chef and the cocktail guru pulled the wraps off their program the other day and the result was not only impressive but fascinating.
For example, the Rock of Gibraltar, a smooth and unabashedly boozy combination of Alvear Sherry, Cocchi Vermouth and Torres Brandy, and that's not all. The brandy is cinnamon and coriander-infused, and the splash of Mote's Bittered Sling Malagasy chocolate is the final touch. This dark and handsome date's a keeper, even on its own, a late-night sipper with somebody close. With Bell's lobster taco, kicked up with just the right amount of sweet 'n sour jalapeno, it was a slam dunk.
Equally intriguing, the Glacial Snout is a unique mating of Laphroaig Islay Quarter Cask, Jameson's Irish and Chartreuse with Irish moss (seaweed) juniper, rosemary Bittered Sling Cascade Celery, garnished with sprigs of fresh rosemary.
Heresy to a single malt lover? Maybe. But that wonderful smoky, peaty thing (and the Irish moss) winds up being the perfect pairing for Dungeness crab toast and lime aioli.
Curious about cocktails and food? You might just want to check it out. Even this cynic is convinced.
Belly's Best
Ruffino Riserva Ducale: Chianto Classico Riserva DOCG 2011 Here's a drop that should up the Valentine's ante a tad. In the glass it's reassuringly blood red. There's a lovely seductive aroma of deep red berry, cherries and a hint of something stony.
On the palate, look for good structure, with a streak of juicy acidity, smooth but definite tannins with some tart cedary notes, a herbal undertone and a lengthy end (90 points). Think pasta such as gnudi, with lashings of Parmigiano Reggiano and black pepper, which the wine can more than handle The cost is $29.99.
Too steep? You could always opt for the "poor cousin," maybe not quite so Valentine's worthy but value-driven Chianto Ruffino 2013, $15.50, 87 points.
Tim Pawsey writes about wine for numerous publications and online as the Hired Belly at hiredbelly.com. Contact: [email protected].
