For a man who's responsible for making a whole lot of wine, Matias Rios is one of the most relaxed guys you could hope to meet.
Rios is the winemaking manager for Chile's Cono Sur, which, under his direction, has emerged as one of the country's more familiar and most consumer-friendly labels.
Beyond its ability to deliver remarkable value, also notable about Cono Sur is the winery's firm commitment to sustainability. Its popular "bicycle labels" are among the most affordable organic wines you'll find anywhere. At the fore of the early sustainable movement in Chile for many years, Cono Sur continues to pursue an aggressive program that sees organic practices now applied in all its vineyards, certified or otherwise.
Rios' latest project has been to develop a new single vineyard range for Cono Sur. It sources from what the winemaker considers to be the most ideal block for a given variety.
Rios first identified the choice vineyards that produce the best statement for a given variety, before zeroing in on the ideal specific site, taking into account soils, micro-climate, exposure, altitude and so on.
The wines range from Casablanca Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay, to a Bio Bio Riesling (which we need to see here!) to Pinot Noir from widely hailed San Antonio, and a (knockout) Syrah, also from San Antonio but this time a warm eastern slope, to mention just a few.
Even though this range represents a definite step up, it's still very competitively priced and reinforces the pattern that Chilean winemakers are following: looking much more closely at specific regions and terroirs from north to south in this large and varied land.
Nose around B.C. Liquor Stores and you can get your hands on the maritime-influenced Viento Mar Block 21 Pinot Noir, which, again, epitomizes the value that Cono Sur delivers, with plush strawberry and coffee notes wrapped in easy tannins with a slight savoury edge (BCLS $19.99, 90 points).
La Palma Block 25 Syrah 2011 delivers some classic varietal meaty aromas followed by generous red and black fruit, well structured with a broad but balanced plate and a lengthy end. Good value, again, at BCLS $19.99 (90 points).
Hopefully we will be seeing more of these wines soon. Look out for them (also at private wine stores), they're worth the search.
Heads up: It's almost that time of year again.
Earlybird tickets for next year's Vancouver International Wine Festival International Tastings (Feb. 28-March 2) go on sale Nov. 1. The regional theme is France, with no shortage of sparkling in the room, as the global focus is "bubbly." Check playhousewinefest. com.
Last call for Cornucopia! Whistler's highly popular, pre-ski season food and wine festival moves to an expanded format this year with 11 days of lively winery dinners, fun seminars, gala tastings and no shortage of informal parties. If you've never been, there's nothing quite like this smorgasbord of sipping and savouring in the heart of Whistler Village.
Highlights range from House Party with Wines of Argentina and a Painted Rock dinner at Hy's, to Perfect Pairings of B.C. wine and food at Four Seasons' Sidecut, featuring plates from the likes of Trevor Bird (Fable Restaurant, Vancouver), Jeff Van Geest (Miradoro Restaurant at Tinhorn Creek Vineyards, Oliver) and Chris Whittaker (Forage, Vancouver), paired with BC VQA wines selected by wine guru DJ Kearney. Hurry up and book at whistlercornucopia.com.
Belly's Budget Best: Cono Sur Organic Sauvignon Blanc 2012 (San Antonio) Brimming with bright citrus and lively acidity, this juicy drop sports a crisp and clean personality with a distinctive mineral streak. Excellent organic value at BCLS $14.99 (89 points). Enjoy it with baba ghanouj or hummus.
Tim Pawsey covers food and wine for numerous publications and online as the Hired Belly at hiredbelly.com. Contact: Twitter @hiredbelly or email [email protected].
