Writing as The Hired Belly, I have attended more than a few winemaker’s dinners over the years.
But some remain etched in my memory more than others. The first was when Howard Soon (now with Peller Estates, then with Calona Vineyards) dropped by the original Raintree to pour his wines.
For most of us uneducated urban bumpkins at the time, it was a novel experience: to have the guy who actually oversaw the picking of the grapes and made the wine to come and pour it for us. Since then a steady schedule of dinners has helped lay the foundation for our blossoming wine culture.
This week I was sitting at a communal table in the West End’s Tavola, a guest of Spencer Massie, partner in Similkameen’s Clos du Soleil. What struck me was how winemaker’s dinners have evolved over the years, and how both Massie and the folks at Tavola happily embraced those changes.
The speeches (the practice of introducing every dish) were ditched. Instead, we had a brief welcome as the first flight was poured and the shared plates began to arrive.
Massie decided not to interrupt the conviviality and instead visited each of the four large tables in turn. It all worked very well.
I liked the idea of pouring two flights of three wines each (mini-verticals of essentially the same wine through different vintages, in each case ’07, ’08 and 2011). The dishes (all a salute to Tavola’s much-loved predecessor, Tapastree) came in well-orchestrated succession. Everyone had a chance to decide for themselves what they felt worked best.
Those flights revealed an impressive consistency. Clos du Soleil is a Similkameen bellweather that, as it matures, underscores the potential of the Okanagan’s all-too-easily overlooked neighbour. The wines are made by Ann Sperling in a style that plants itself firmly between old and new world camps, and is also immensely food-friendly, as this evening proved.
I was impressed with the way even the older whites were standing up, although I leaned in favour of both the 2008s (Capella and Signature Red Blend). The Capella 2011, which we picked as Best White Wine at last year’s Okanagan B.C. Wine Awards judging, continues to evolve and impress.
Three shoo-in pairings of the evening were classics: the wicked, honey and nectarine toned Saturn 2013 dessert wine (think Sauternes and you’ll get the picture, says Massie) with foie gras and rhubarb; Capella 2008 with a seafood salad of scallop and prawn; and the deeply red-berried, cassis-toned, plummy but structured 2008 Signature (91 points) with chicken livers and beef tenderloin. Also well worth tracking down: the 2011 Signature (90 points) from the winery, $39.90.
One more highlight came with the unveiling of Marc du Soleil. This “co-pro” between Le Clos du Soleil and Vancouver’s Long Table Distillery, yields a very clean, subtly caramel and smooth-tasting (43 per cent alcohol) distilled spirit made from Merlot must that’s an indication of great things to come. Long Table’s Charles Tremewen says it’s precisely the kind of local collaboration to which he aspires.
Check in at the distillery next week if you’re interested. And it’s only at the distillery because the winery’s not allowed to sell it. I mean, why would you even think that?
I’ll have more on Clos de Soleil in coming weeks.
Belly’s Budget Best
Chateau Ste. Michelle Riesling 2012: Here’s an easy-sipping Riesling to welcome spring. It is off-dry and lusciously fruit-forward with stonefruit, a touch of mineral and even a hint of petrol. It will go well with Waldorf salad with a touch of spice, or Pad Thai (BCLS Specialty, $15.9, 89 points).
Tim Pawsey writes about wine for numerous publications and online as the Hired Belly at hiredbelly.com. Contact: [email protected].
