As the machinations surrounding the modernization of B.C.’s outdated retail liquor laws continue, I’m reminded of a tasting that took place during my recent trip to southwestern France.
We were in the Victor Hugo Market in central Toulouse on a bustling Saturday morning. Surrounded by fresh produce at the wealth of butchers, cheese shops and fishmongers, and by the local citizenry going about their business, we were hosted by a wineshop for a casual tasting of southwest wines.
The setting was perfect as we stood beside the counter pairing a few wines with typical local fare, such as mineral and citrus-toned Ode d’Aydie 2011 with smoked trout (which the wine merchant had caught and prepared himself), and Chateau d’Aydie Madiran l’Origine 2012, a bold, earthy blend of Tannat and Cabernet Franc, that was a perfect foil to foie gras. And spicy-toned, forest-floor-toned Chateau Montus 2009 proved the ideal partner to a rich, duck sausage.
As we were sipping and talking about the wines and their pairings, a couple of seven-year-olds casually helped themselves to our platter of foie gras (they knew a good thing when they saw it).
As we stood there, the patrons were busy enjoying wine samples as well as buying and drinking wines by the glass, having finished their shopping. It all seemed so perfectly normal and civilized. Indeed it was. Yet somehow we can be pretty sure it’s a scene you won’t be seeing at local markets any time soon, and we should be asking ourselves, “Why not?”
Instead, despite promises of sensible liquor reforms that pair perfectly with our blossoming food and wine culture, we’re treated to an ongoing spectacle of backroom deals that continue to favour a few well-placed and politically connected interests.
In the relatively brief history of the B.C. wine industry, this week will be remembered as a major milestone. The B.C. Wine Authority has approved the Golden Mile Bench application thereby laying the foundation for what will likely become a series of similar applications.
However, what’s crucial to appreciate, looking in from the outside, is the process involved that led to the approval (pending cabinet confirmation).
For many years, despite the rise in quality and rapid growth in the number of wineries, B.C. has lagged behind most other wine regions around the world in identifying the specifics of its varied terroirs.
That’s because, in great part, the province’s efforts (entirely laudable) have been to tie funding to tourism. However, there comes a point in time when, if nothing else than to be credible on the world stage, it becomes vital to identify variations in soil, climate and overall origin in what has to date been treated as a monolithic region.
Belly’s Best
Domaine Gayda Grenache 2012
Easy drinking Languedoc red invites with peppery and red-berried notes before a gently spicy and plush palate with a lengthy close. Good value at BCLS $14.99, 89 points. Look for the Flying “Free Spirit” label.
Tim Pawsey writes about wine for numerous publications and online as the Hired Belly at hiredbelly.com. Contact: [email protected].
